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Blowing trunk output?


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jrinbc 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: October 27, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: October 27, 2003 at 7:05 PM / IP Logged  

Hi guys, I installed a Prostart CT-3400 in my wife's Taurus last week. After the install, everything worked fine. The next day, the trunk would not pop. After checking the wiring, resetting the unit, checking the programming I came to the conclusion that the ouput was fried. So I took the unit back to Crappy Tires for an exchange which they did.

Brought the new one home, plugged it in and all is well. The next day guess what. The trunk doesn't work. ?????

Am I doing something wrong here. The Taurus is a 96 without factory keyless but with power windows, door locks, seat, etc. The trunk output is positive so I put in a relay to reverse the polarity and installed a quenching diode. I took the +12 from the trunk switch itself for both pins 85 and 87. 30 is +12 to the trunk and 86 is the - trigger from the module.

Any ideas what could be happening?

Thanks a bunch.

black2nd12 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: August 06, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 27, 2003 at 7:27 PM / IP Logged  

try using a different +12v source. also, if your relay has a diode across 85 and 86, it wont work.

jrinbc 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: October 27, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: October 27, 2003 at 8:08 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the reply.

I thought about trying another +12 source (once I get another module) but I can't see why this would make a difference. Anyone?

BTW, the relay does work with the diode. It just means that it is polarised and the pos/neg have to be on the right side of the anode/cathode.

Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: October 27, 2003 at 11:10 PM / IP Logged  
There are 2 wires at the switch. If the switch has a pink / YELLOW and a gray/red use the pink / YELLOW as a negative trigger. If the swich has a gray/red and a purple / YELLOW, use gray/red as a positive trigger.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
AutoObsessions 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 28, 2003 at 6:10 PM / IP Logged  
I usually hook these up for positive trunk release with 86 and 30 to 12volts, 85 to the alarm output and 87 to the trunk release. I would also use a better 12volt source.
jrinbc 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: October 27, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: October 28, 2003 at 9:44 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the replies guys.

I'm sure that the trunk is positive. It did work at first but then the remote module seems to blow out its output. That's the part that gets me. I don't understand what would be blowing out the output from the module other than a bad design for the transistor bias. It is rated at 500mA. I checked the relay's coil and it is 83 ohms. So that should be plenty to limit the current draw to less than 200mA. There is no shorts since that would blow the fuse on the +12.

This is the first remote start that I installed but i'm not exactly an electronic "virgin". I did train in electronics even though that was 20 years ago and my day job includes working with PID's and setting PLC controls. Anyway, I'm beginning to suspect a faulty design. This unit is pretty new. From what I understand it was only released in September. Problem is I'm not an "authorized" installer and therefore can't get tech support from them. Maybe there's somethng I'm doing wrong or a simple cause I'm missing it's driving me nuts.

I really appreciate your help.

10nesne1 
Silver - Posts: 284
Silver spacespace
Joined: June 19, 2002
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: October 29, 2003 at 8:54 AM / IP Logged  
"Am I doing something wrong here. The Taurus is a 96 without factory keyless but with power windows, door locks, seat, etc. The trunk output is positive so I put in a relay to reverse the polarity and installed a quenching diode. I took the +12 from the trunk switch itself for both pins 85 and 87. 30 is +12 to the trunk and 86 is the - trigger from the module."
Well, your connection is bacsically correct. Which fuse are you blowing factory fuse or your fuse for the trunk release? If you are blowing the factory fuse than you are hooking it up incorrectly, or if you are blowing your trunk release fuse than you are hooking it correctly when you hit the remote. That's an easy fix because most newer vehicle today the trunk release wire is rested at ground. All the connection you posted is correct. all you need to do is to cut the wire in half and connect the factory trunk relase wire to 87a and the oppsite wire to pin 30 and 12v+ positive goese to pin 87 and 85. Then pin 86 goes to alarm aux output negative.
Relay Configuration:
Pin 87 and 85 to 12+ volt (fused at 15 or 20 amp)
Pin 87a trunk release wire switch side
pin 30 trunk release wire motor side
pin 86 alarm negative output
Good luck
floaterr 
Silver - Posts: 383
Silver spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 29, 2003 at 12:49 PM / IP Logged  
This has been kinda touched on but here's my $.02
Find -another- 12v sourse. DO NOT use the one going to the relay.
I'm thinking it's possible that if you installed a diode with the line side on #86 the vehicles keyless entry system is sometime during the night fishing for a ground (for what ever reason). The car removes 12v from the line you connected to and uses the alarm as a ground for something else (accidently). Since the diode is 1amp (more the likely) it is bypassing the windings of the relay and pulling current through the trunk output.
Good luck
jrinbc 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: October 27, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: October 29, 2003 at 7:59 PM / IP Logged  

10nesne1Well, your connection is bacsically correct. Which fuse are you blowing factory fuse or your fuse for the trunk release? If you are blowing the factory fuse than you are hooking it up incorrectly, or if you are blowing your trunk release fuse than you are hooking it correctly when you hit the remote. That's an easy fix because most newer vehicle today the trunk release wire is rested at ground. All the connection you posted is correct. all you need to do is to cut the wire in half and connect the factory trunk relase wire to 87a and the oppsite wire to pin 30 and 12v+ positive goese to pin 87 and 85. Then pin 86 goes to alarm aux output negative.
Relay Configuration:
Pin 87 and 85 to 12+ volt (fused at 15 or 20 amp)
Pin 87a trunk release wire switch side
pin 30 trunk release wire motor side
pin 86 alarm negative output
Good luck
[/QUOTE wrote:

I'm not blowing any fuses. The negative output from the module goes dead.

The relay setup you describe is the same as I got except I don't go to pin 87a. I take the output to the trunk (30) at the switch which is really the same as 87a and 30 are normally closed.  Here is my relya setup.

Blowing trunk output? -- posted image.

I'm not blowing any fuses. The negative output from the module goes dead.

The relay setup you describe is the same as I got except I don't go to pin 87a. I take the output to the trunk (30) at the switch which is really the same as 87a and 30 are normally closed.  Here is my relya setup.

Blowing trunk output? -- posted image.

jrinbc 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: October 27, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: October 29, 2003 at 8:01 PM / IP Logged  
Yikes! That post ^^^^^^ really went wrong. Sorry guys.
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