Viper/Sunfire Car won’t start when cold?

Like jrilla asked, please post more information on what it does when it wont start, how long cranking, any lights on on the dash (theft, check engine), and at what point it does start.  It sounds to me that you have a problem with the vehicle not the remote start.  Also, where are you located?  If its just the cold, why doesnt the dealer try to start it first thing in the morning?  As for some of the previous replies... you car does not have a choke.  It has a coolant temp sensor that tells the ECM that your car is cold, and to increase the pulse width on your injectors (gives it more fuel).  It could be many things wrong, and I hate to speculate...  Your dealer should take care of you. 

If all else fails, remove the remote start completly (or just unhook power, and unhook the bypass), and see if the problem persists, if it does... leave it that way and take it back to the dealer and demand a rental car untill they get it fixed. 

Just my opinion.

i had a 2000 grand am with paskey 3 , and the security kicked in with the key, i had the bypass installed, i then disconnected the battery and it worked.

I hate these friggen key codes, there the biggest pain, and non of them are trustable enough to last the life of the remote starter.

Ok I went to the installer and had him unhook the bypass so I could try it out to see if it would start with the key at nights. I haven't had any problems with it not starting, but it did warm up this weekend compared to the last few weekends. (Central Ohio, went from low 30's to mid 50's at night)

I think the battery, oil, theft, seatbelt and maybe something else lit up when I tried to start it. I never paid much attention because those all light up when I turn it on anyway. It's always between 9-10 at night when I tried starting it and it doesn't work. Then noon the next morning it would start with no problems.

The installer said something about a Ford bypass he'd seen that had a sensor on it that when cold collected condensation and wouldn't pick up the remote signal. I asked why it wouldn't work with the key and he said it still thought the car was being stolen.

I don't know if I should just have him install the different bypass or not. I thought I bought a good one, maybe I can complain to the company I bought this bypass from and get my money back, but I doubt it.

Twice I was stuck at work an hour away from where I live. Once I stayed on a friends couch and another time a dorm room floor. Once I had to take a friends car to work, and once I left it running for 6 hours to make sure i could get to work.

well, there was a recall on the turnsignals and the hazards for 2000 to present for the alero,grand am and i can't remeber the third.(sorry) just this past summer. as far as warranties go, if the dealership is ignoring the issues with the car because of your aftermarket equipment, remind them of the magnuson-moss act. basically states that your factory warranties may not be voided because of aftermarket equipment installed in the vehicle. unless the aftermarket equipment is proven to be the culprit. the magnuson-moss act is not state, but rather federal. so it applies to all 50 states.  

as far as the alarm/remote start..............what method did the installer use to make his/her connections?  solder(best) poke wrap n tape(good) t-tap/scotch-lok/ (worst)  i am unfamilier with the bypass you purchased, so the only thing i would suggest would be the 555L from D.E.I  i haven't had one come back, yet! there are certain bypasses that the installer has to "dial" in the factory code. on these certain bypasses, the dial can vibrate loose from the original setting.  another thought on the dome light would be: did the installer hook up a hood/trunk pin to the alarm? if so, did he diode isolate if he connected the hood/trunk pin to domelight wire?(my thought on that is while you are driving, and that pin is loose or touches ground for whatever reason, that would cause your domelight to come on while driving.)

as far the car not starting........is it that you try starting the vehicle and nothing happens? no noise or cranking? or does it crank, turn over and then immediately shut off?    if its the first one, then it sounds like the starter kill is engaged, if its the second one, look at your dash. what is the factory security light at your speedometer cluster doing? steady on? flashing? and if so, how many times does it flash?   flash,flash,flash or flash,flash pause, flash,flash pause. there will be a sequence. look for it and tell the installer(if applicable)

 hope this helps. if you're ever up in the northeast of ohio, i'm sure i could take a look at it for you.

I'm pretty sure he didn't solder it, but I don't know. I didn't think he had to do anything with the bypass I got, just hook it up and it learned all the codes itself.

Like I said before I don't think the alarm is affecting the dome light, because it happened before I ever had the alarm installed.

When I try to start it, it would crank and turn over, crank and turn over... until I quit turning the key. I believe the theft light was steadily on.

I'm in northeast ohio every day for work, I just moved out of Kent a few weeks ago. I got the alarm installed in Akron at a place on Arlington street called Millenium Hydraulics. They actually just moved to a different place right by Tallmadge Circle, maybe you've heard of them.