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jl audio 12w6v2, not good?


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dcgc 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: November 03, 2003 at 3:48 PM / IP Logged  
Just replaced my 10w3d4's with two 12w6v2, now I have a truck that sounds like crap. I adjusted my gain, my input voltage, bass EQ, low-pass filter, infrasonic filter, you name it. I am still getting a flop in these subs. My box is sealed air tight at a little over 1.1 cu. ft. per sub. Can someone please help me I know these subs can put put more spl than I'm getting before they flop. The 10's were better than these 12's. DISAPPOINTED AND BROKE.jl audio 12w6v2, not good? -- posted image. jl audio 12w6v2, not good? -- posted image. jl audio 12w6v2, not good? -- posted image.
forbidden 
Platinum - Posts: 5,353
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: November 03, 2003 at 4:24 PM / IP Logged  

Dear disapponted and broke,

Have a brew, relax and start from scratch. R u using the same box for these new subs as you were for the 10's. What kind of truck, xcab or not, what amplifier and cd, how is the box wired.

The first thing that I would check is phase. Disconnect the speakers from the amp. Take a battery (small like a 9v) and hold the negative speaker wire to the negative terminal on the battery, next touch the poitive speaker wire to the positive terminal of the battery (only briefly). The speaker will make a pop sound and move in one direction only.  If the speaker does not move at all then you are dead shorting it. Make sure both subs pop. Now tell me how you have them wired, both separately and together, and finally to the amp.

Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
dcgc 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: November 03, 2003 at 7:16 PM / IP Logged  
thanks for the reply Rob. Well I,ve had a couple. Now the subs are in the same box, same amp (jl audio 500/1), same wiring to the amp. All I did at the replacment was widen the mounting hole and wire the same to the subs. Once I did this I took it easy on the subs for about an hour, then I turned it up gradully (I was on a road trip) when Jackyl came on the radio station of course I turned it up more I didnt get the volume as high as I could with the 10's before they popped. So I took them out made sure that I had them wired correctly, I did. Put them back in and to no avail POP again so I started tuning my amp as before mentioned. Still POP. 2003 chevy silverado extended cab with custom home made fiberglass and mdf box.
Ketel22 
Silver - Posts: 976
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 23, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: November 03, 2003 at 7:21 PM / IP Logged  
shouldn't  you make and use a newer larger box for the 12's vs the 10's first off?
Quad L Handyman services
dcgc 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: November 04, 2003 at 7:00 AM / IP Logged  
first of all I dont think that I need another box when I believe this one is very capable of handling the 12's.JL suggests that the cubic feet be between .9 and 1.5 I have exactly 1.179 cu.ft. per sub. I agree with you Ketel sound is a way of life and mine (sound) sucks.
bberman1 
Gold - Posts: 2,314
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: November 04, 2003 at 9:35 AM / IP Logged  

With 1.1 cu/ft the enclosures volume should be fine. Could you please list what all your x overs are set at? Also have you checked the phase like Forbidden suggested? And how do you have the subs wired to the amp?

 
forbidden 
Platinum - Posts: 5,353
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: November 04, 2003 at 12:15 PM / IP Logged  
You must ensure that your subs are in phase first, if they are not it will result in a drastic loss of bass output, follow the procedures I set out earlier for you and advise me of how you make out. Now for the box, you are now compressing a slighly smaller volume of air than before, the difference between 10" and 12" subs. Generally and only generally speaking, the larger the speaker is,trying to compress the smaller volume of air (I will not talk about speaker parameters here) will result in some adverse effects on the output of the speakers. Usually just changing to bigger subs in the same box is not all that it's cracked upo to be. The box is responsible for the sound, not the sub. Take that sub out of the box and how does it sound? If the speaker polarity (phase) test goes OK and the subs are still popping, then either you have the gain set too high (do you have a bass boost turned on) or you do in fact require a different box to gain the benefits and full capabilities of the larger subs.
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
forbidden 
Platinum - Posts: 5,353
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: November 04, 2003 at 12:23 PM / IP Logged  

BTW, here is how I would wire the subs to your particular amp. It will be a series / parallel (on the amp) set up.

Take the 1st woofer and you see that it has two voice coils. Hook the positive lead on one coil to the negative lead on the other coil. This leaves you with two unused terminals, one positive and one negative. We have just made this an 8 ohm sub. D the exact same to the second sub. Next you want to hook each unused terminal to the corresponding outputs on the amp (2 posive and 2 negative, one for each speaker). This due to the AMPLIFIERS parallel connection will result in a very healthy 4 ohm mono load. The lower the impedance load is on an amplifier, the more current it has to draw in order to have a stable output. As this is a "governed" amplifier and makes 500w rms at 1.5 - 4 ohm, run it at 4 ohm, don't make the amp work as hard.

Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
dcgc 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: November 04, 2003 at 1:40 PM / IP Logged  
The subs are in phase I touched the pos and neg to a 9 volt and both did jump. Now I'm going to put them in 8 ohm I'm not sure that I can wire the subs in the way that is stated above for they have jumpers 4 connections 2 pos, 2 neg plus a main therefore a total of 6 connectors per sub (be right back)
also I turned my gain down more and no I turned my LOUD off I have to have my EQ with the sub output at +10db just to hear the bass.
dcgc 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: November 04, 2003 at 2:16 PM / IP Logged  
OK here's what I did I left the subs in 8 ohm.they still rock but I guess that this is what I have to live with because I do not want to have to customize my rear seat to put them in a larger box. I know that they can do more than this, at least they are not popping and they do rattle my teeth.But I wanted them to rattle my eyeballs. thanks for everyones help.Just some iformation on my truck: I have a Kenwood mp922 head unit with a kenwood kgc-6042a EQ, pair of JL Audio XR650csi (6.5") in my front doors, a pair of MB Quart discus dkd116 (4") in my rear doors but pair pushed by a JL Audio 300/4, 2 JL Audio 12w6v2 pushed by a JL Audio 500/1
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