1999 Ford Explorer factory Amp bypass

I have actually answered alot of my questions by reading the posts on this kick ass board, but I thought I would double check and ask for any pointers. I have two 2 channel amps from my old Explorer that I want to put into my new used Explorer. I have already run the main power lead from the battery and I am looking for the most effective way to hook up the remote power. I see that the ignition wire seems to be the place to hook it up or possibly a blue wire in the factory harness??? Does any one know if you can hook into the factory remote or even if there is a factory remote? Also, is there some way I can check to make sure that I am actually tapping the ignition wire? The reason I ask is the fact the I have an Explorer Limited and this damn thing has more gadets and wiring than I have ever seen. I know that alot of these wiring diagrams are a general diagram, but I have a feeling my truck might have some different color schemes for all the different connections. I have included the wiring diagram for the security in case it helps. Thanks in advance...

1999 Ford Explorer Security Information

• Constant 12V+  Yellow    Ignition Switch Harness
• Starter   RED / Light Blue   Ignition Switch Harness
• Ignition   Light GREEN/ Purple  Ignition Switch Harness
• Ignition 2   Gray / YELLOW   Ignition Switch Harness
• Ignition 3   BLACK/ Green   Ignition Switch Harness
• Accessory  Gray / YELLOW   Ignition Switch Harness
• Tach   Tan / YELLOW   Coil or Pin 48 at PCM
• Neutral Safety Wire RED / Light Blue (+)  
• Brake Switch  Light Green   Brake Switch
• Trunk Pin n/a   Same as Dome Light
• Parking Lights  PURPLE / White (+)   Driver's Kick Panel or WHITE/ Black at Switch
• Head Lamp  RED / Yellow (+)   Light Switch
• Hood Pin Tan/Light  Green (-)    Driver's Kick Panel
• Factory Disarm  Dark GREEN/ Purple (-)  4 Pin Connector Driver's Kick Panel
• Door Trigger  BLACK/ Light Blue (+)  Courtesy Light under Dash
• Door Lock  Pink / YELLOW (-)   Driver's Kick Panel
• Door Unlock  Pink/Light Green (-)  
• Driver's Lock  Pink/Black (+)   Driver's Door Harness
• Driver's Unlock  RED / Orange (+)   Driver's Door Harness
• Passenger Unlock  Pink/Green (-)   Driver's Kick Panel
• Horn Wire  Yellow/Light Green (-)  Or Blue at Steering Column
• Windows Up  LF=WHITE/ Black, RF=Tan/Light Blue, LR=Gray/Orange, RR=Yellow/Black
• Windows Down  LF=Red, RF=WHITE/ Yellow, LR=Yellow/Light Blue, RR=RED / Black

Are you hooking it up to an aftermarket radio or your factory radio?  Your remote wire goes from the back of your radio to your amp, not to your ignition.  The 1 remote wire might not be enough to turn on both amps so you can add a relay to make the signal stronger.  Hook it up like so

PIN 85 = Ground

PIN 86 = Remote wire from radio

PIN 87 = Constant 12v fused

PIN 30 = Wires out to amps

Hot Shot Guy,

I am using the factory stereo. There are actually three harnesses behing the radio. The advice you gave me

PIN 85 = Ground

PIN 86 = Remote wire from radio

PIN 87 = Constant 12v fused

PIN 30 = Wires out to amps

is a little bit over my head. I am not a pro so if you could explain this a litttle bit more in layman's term that would help me.

Thanks

demond96,

How did you or where did you hook the remote turn on?

Thanks

There is a BLUE wire going into the factory amp... this is your remote turn on lead for the amp. Tap into this and make sure you test it to be sure that it is a (+) switched wire when the radio is turned on.

 My factory radio didn't last long so I had to buy an after market radio. You can connect the amp to the  remote wire under the seat all of your speaker wires are bundled there in black electrical tape(that is how my wires were).