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2001 GMC Sierra-tach location,wire color


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1kewlexpo 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 21, 2003
Posted: December 20, 2003 at 2:32 PM / IP Logged  

It's the white wire found by the ECM.  on the 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0 L, the tach wire is pin 10 in the red connector.

John

carstarter 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: December 20, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 20, 2003 at 2:43 PM / IP Logged  
Thanx for all ur help, just 1 more question. I`ve forgotten what i should b looking for on my DMM, when testing for the correct tach wire.IS  the voltage supposed to swing between 6 & 9 volts? Thanx againTE=GEEQUE]Test it with a DMM in AC to determine that is right wire.[/QUOTE]
sroth140 
Silver - Posts: 513
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 27, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 22, 2003 at 12:45 AM / IP Logged  

heres a good one, pull off the dash like you were going to install a radio, then pull the shifter in to the lowest gear.  after that, tilt the steering wheel all the way down.  take out the 4 philips head screws that hold the instrument cluster in, tilt it forward and pull it out.  find the only white wire (99% sure the only one) in that harness and test it with a voltmeter on AC.  that will work perfect.

beats going into the engine and messing around there.  ive done about 10 of those style suburbans, sierras, ect... trucks since the month started.  they are pretty simple to do, all of the wires are right under the dash after two 7mm screws and four 10mm nuts.  the locks and lights can be snagged at the BCM right under the steering wheel and the brake wire is right there too on the brake switch.

carstarter 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: December 20, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 28, 2003 at 8:20 PM / IP Logged  
sroth140 wrote:

heres a good one, pull off the dash like you were going to install a radio, then pull the shifter in to the lowest gear.  after that, tilt the steering wheel all the way down.  take out the 4 philips head screws that hold the instrument cluster in, tilt it forward and pull it out.  find the only white wire (99% sure the only one) in that harness and test it with a voltmeter on AC.  that will work perfect.

beats going into the engine and messing around there.  ive done about 10 of those style suburbans, sierras, ect... trucks since the month started.  they are pretty simple to do, all of the wires are right under the dash after two 7mm screws and four 10mm nuts.  the locks and lights can be snagged at the BCM right under the steering wheel and the brake wire is right there too on the brake switch.

carstarter 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: December 20, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 28, 2003 at 8:22 PM / IP Logged  
sroth140
carstarter 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: December 20, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 28, 2003 at 8:31 PM / IP Logged  
sroth140 wrote:

heres a good one, pull off the dash like you were going to install a radio, then pull the shifter in to the lowest gear.  after that, tilt the steering wheel all the way down.  take out the 4 philips head screws that hold the instrument cluster in, tilt it forward and pull it out.  find the only white wire (99% sure the only one) in that harness and test it with a voltmeter on AC.  that will work perfect.

beats going into the engine and messing around there.  ive done about 10 of those style suburbans, sierras, ect... trucks since the month started.  they are pretty simple to do, all of the wires are right under the dash after two 7mm screws and four 10mm nuts.  the locks and lights can be snagged at the BCM right under the steering wheel and the brake wire is right there too on the brake switch.

Hey, thanx for all ur help...everything worked out fine, i caught the tach wire just where u said it b.One more thing thats causing a slight problem.  If the owner let`s the remote starter run till it`s time of 15 min. runs out, the truck shuts down, but than right after it shuts down, the horn honks one time.I`ve used a bypass module to get around the passlock ll anti theft system , and i`ve run a neg. shut off to the light green factory disarm wire. Everything works fine but for that horn honk at the end of the 15 min. run time of the remote starter. Any ideas on why i get that one horn honk?  Thanx again.
sroth140 
Silver - Posts: 513
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 27, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 29, 2003 at 12:39 AM / IP Logged  
umm, did you use a factory disarm wire?  it might be something with the factory alarm arming again (like a lock pulse) from when the activation shuts down.  the (-) trigger from the brain would go away.
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