Mazda Tribute remote start/alarm

Well I have read nothing but bad luck about the Mazda Tribute when doing remote start/alarm. I just did one last week andhave had nothing but one problem after another. Two headlight switches have blown. The ign key fuse in the car has blown, and even the dang inline 25A fuse I had on the power wire going to the alarm has blown. Transponder bypass works half the time. It aint worth my trouble. Now in hindsight I am leaning toward a bad or weak ground on my part causing the parking lights to try and grounding through the switch causing it to fail but the customer is now fed up and so am I. These cars have some of the flimsiest wiring I have seen. Everything looks like very small gauge stuff so obviuosly the car uses a relay for everything to work!

does any of this info look good?????? Make:   Mazda Model: Tribute Year:    2002-03 This Database Was Last Updated On:    6/9/2003 Index #: 6034 Alarm Constant 12 volts RED / LT.BLUE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS * Ignition 12 volts L GREEN/ VIOLET IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Starter TAN/LT BLUE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Dome Light VIO/LT.GREEN (-) INST.CLUSTER OR 22 PIN PLUG AT GEM Trunk Pin Switch    Parking Lamp BROWN (+) DRIVER KICK PANEL Power Lock PINK/WHITE DRIVER KICK ** #217 Power Unlock SINGLE WIRE SYSTEM PANEL #217- See Single Wire Door Lock Diagram. * RED / BLUE +12v Is Fused At 10 Amps. Go To Battery For Remote Start +12v *** Door Locks Require Ground For Unlock,Ground Thru 1K Ohm Resistor For Lock Remote Start Tach Signal GRN/VIO or LT GRN/WHT AT COIL PACK * Ignition #2 ** Ignition #3    Accessory BLACK/ LT.GREEN IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Neutral Safety    Brake Light LIGHT GREEN (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL Reverse Light    Rear Window Defrost    * Tach For ZETEC Motor. DURATEC Motor Has COP (Coil On Plug) Use Wire That Is Not WHITE/ VIOLET ** Hood Pin Wire-PURPLE / ORANGE (-) At Gem Module Located Behind Driver Dash Good Luck

David

Ace Security

813-376-9778

Tampa

Donate to the 12volt

As you said the wiring in that car is very thin and almost everything is negative. Park lights, locks, horn, door trigger, etc. If your blowing a 25a fuse I would think something isn't right. I usually tap my power off of the thick yellow wire in the driver kick by the fuse panel. Definately don't use the RED / blue or whatever it is @ the ignition switch. A bad ground is also a possibility I guess so check that. I've done a ton of mazda tributes / ford escapes (same car/wiring for anyone who isn't familiar with them..) and haven't run into any problems or had any serious comebacks. Let us know how it turns out and what you figure out to be the problem! Good luck sounds like a bad situation..Happens to the best of us though! Mike

the unit has been taken out of the car ... i went straight to the battery with an 8 gauge wire with a 25 amp fuse in it for power ..... the info provided looks identical to what i have ... im not even ruling out a bad remote start unit .... customer did say that she had taken the car back to the dealership 4 times for various electrical problems

most relay packs for remote starts have 30amp fuses. but I do as nowyaknow said and use the heavy constant on the rightside of the fusebox.   never had a prob with one of these cars

The parking light wire is negative (BLACK/ green) and runs from the column switch into the main ignition harness.  The accessory wire from the ignition switch is also BLACK/ green and is a similar gauge wire.  I got $20 that says you tapped your accessory wire from your remote start to the negative parking light wire.  This is why you blew up those switches and popped fuses.  Merry Christmas! 

i tapped the acc wire near the center console, checked to make sure it had 12v in acc and nothing during start