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2003 Dodge Caravan, Prestige APS-996


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Kmerting 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 27, 2003 at 10:18 PM / IP Logged  

I'm installing a Prestige APS-996 and need some help. 

The instructions say connect the tach input signal wire to the negative side of the ignition coil.  I'm installing in a 2003 Dodge Caravan.  Are the following wires at the ignition coil the correct wires?

For a 2.4L use blue/green or blue/tan and on a 3.3L/3.8L use blue/green, blue/tan or blue/orange?

Also, I've read the following in another post, I'm a little unclear on it.

When referring to the 12V (lt. blue/red (10A)) wire at the ignition harness the following is mentioned.  "This wire is rated at 10 amps only.  If installing any system with high current outputs, go to battery for 12v."

This wire is rated at 10 amps max.  I just can't figure out why I can't use this wire for +12V battery source.   From what I see everything is operated by relays.  Would I need to provide high current to this input?  I have no problem connecting to a high current supply, but I just want to understand why it would be necessary.  The ignition switch is supplied by this wire and then when key is turned sends power out thru various other wires.  Am I incorrect?  Can anyone explain the difference for this?

As far as Start Inhibit Relay.  From what I understand, this relay is optional.  What it will do is not allow power to go to the start solenoid wire when the alarm is in a certain state.  Is this something I want to use?  What benefit will it give?

Thanks very much for any help..

Ken

Kmerting 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 28, 2003 at 3:54 PM / IP Logged  

I have an APS-996 and I have one problem.. 

I need a ground output that's only grounded during start. 

My problem is this... When I remote start, heat won't work.  If I disconnect the ground output from the remote start that goes to the relay to supply the 180 ohm for the secondary start then the heat will come on.  So this output that i'm using from the remote start is always grounded while remote start has control.  Once the key is put in and brake depressed heat will come on.   Or like I said, I can disconnect the ground and heat turns on.

What have I done wrong?

Thanks... Ken

Ohmz 
Copper - Posts: 193
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 09, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 28, 2003 at 4:13 PM / IP Logged  
When installing an alarm or remote start, it is always mentioned that the best source of 12v is to the battery. Most Chrylsler vehicles, they rate the blue/red wire @ 10 amps max. I Never had a problem with this wire when installing Audiovox alram/remote starters.
The optional Starter relay is required in most installs. For car insurance purposes thaty want the "kill switch" installed so that the vehicle can not start while the alarm is ON. I usually play around with it. I don't hook it up to the alarm. I would ask the customer if they want a special override button to start the car. (pushing the cigarette lighter, stepping on the brakes, putting on your seat belt first) You would have to perform one of these things in order to start the car.
Ohmz 
Copper - Posts: 193
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 09, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 28, 2003 at 4:23 PM / IP Logged  
You may have the wrong wire for heat. If you have 2 starter wires in this van (which I don't recal), you should connect both wires together with the yellow wire from the remote start. Use your Purple wire from the remote start to connect to your heat wire.
You are probably using the light blue wire (which requires a relay) to your heat wire. You only use this wire only to connect a 3rd ignition. This van does not have one. Do Not use it.
Kmerting 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 28, 2003 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged  
I got it working.. Thanks very much for the help...
Kmerting 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 04, 2004 at 12:39 AM / IP Logged  

Ok, it's not working...

Here's where I'm at... I thought everything was fine... sent car out... the next day it came back with check engine light lit... it became hard to start with key.. kept cranking. wouldn't start very often with key.... would start fine with remote.... I unpluged the 2 main connectors from the aps-996, took the car for a ride, and a few minutes later light went out... Plugged back in, and all seemed fine... over the next hour I tested the car by starting with key and with remote... seemed fine... about 2 hours later I went out and tried to start with key, and it just cranked... turned key off, tried again.... wouldn't start..... tried with remote and it fired right up..... The check engine light came on a few minutes later....  Again I unpluged the connectors from the aps-996 and all would be fine again...

Here's what i have

2003 Dodge Caravan... Came with Keyless entry...

Installing Prestige APS-996

12V lt blue/red wire at ign harness for power

Yellow wire at ign harness for starter
PURPLE / brown wire at ign harness for second start.. this wire I have connected to relay with 180 ohm resistor.. I have this wire setup so that while remote starting the wire will ground thru the 180 ohm resistor... once the start is achieved this 180 ohm ground is removed...  If I didn't have this resistor in the heat wouldn't work, and if I left it connected the heat wouldn't work... It appeared that it only could be connected during cranking... I'm using the starter output of the remote starter to give a positive trigger to the relay to allow for connection only when in crank.
one of the two pink/white wires at ignition harness I have to my other ignition output on remote starter...
I have the tach wire to blue/green at ignition coil...

Now I need to stress... to correct the problem I just disconnect the plug from the alarm/remote starter control module... I am not removing any wires off ignition harness or anything... I'm just unplugging at the box... Once I do.. problems go away after a few minutes of driving...

Any clue?  I could really use the help....

Thanks.. Ken

johnmax 
Copper - Posts: 131
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 15, 2003
Posted: January 04, 2004 at 8:18 AM / IP Logged  
on the 996 there is a4 pin harness with BLACK/ striped wires in it. I don't remember the color right now, but one is ground during start. Just hook it up directly to the PURPLE / brown. The resistance within the brain is just right; no resistor is needed. That is how we do those all the time.
Kmerting 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 04, 2004 at 9:39 AM / IP Logged  

Ok, I see the wire you are talking about... There is a BLACK / YELLOW wire.. ground output during start... It says that it's a 300mA ground output...  You are saying to totally get rid of my relay and resistor and just connect that wire to PURPLE / brown...  

Do you think that this could cause the check engine light to come on? 
Or could this cause the no start with key condition?

Like I said it does work fine at first... after a while it goes crazy..

Thanks... Ken

johnmax 
Copper - Posts: 131
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 15, 2003
Posted: January 04, 2004 at 10:28 AM / IP Logged  
yes. it is low current negative. Usually does cause the engine light to come on if not hooked up or a no start. Dump the relay and hook it right in. We do it that way.
Kmerting 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 04, 2004 at 11:52 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks johnmax.... I connected it that way and i've been checking the car every few hours, and sofar it's working great... I appreciate it...  How about door triggers?   Any trick for that?  I got a diode isolation diagram... shows cutting the individual trigger wires going into the bcm, and putting a diode inline, and then splicing off each of them thru another diode and then combining them all to the trigger from the aps-996...  So each door needs 2 diodes....  Is that the best way to do it on this car?

Thanks... Ken


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