Wiring Diagram for Older Alpine Alarm

Zach,

Talk about vintage. I still have an old book from Alpine (1987 installation guide) that has some info in it about the 8121 system. Here's what it had inside.

Yellow wire: battery 12V with 20A fuse

Red wire: ignition 12v

Black wire: ground

BLACK/ White wire: negative door switch

BLACK / YELLOW: positive door switch

RED / black: negative trunk switch

RED / yellow: positive trunk switch

Orange: positive 12V out to starter cut relay

Blue wire: siren 12v output

Green: hoodlock 12V output

White: light flash negative output

WHITE/ brown: door lock output (may be unlock though)

WHITE/ yellow:door lock common (goes to 12v or ground depending on wiring)

WHITE/ green: door unlock output (may be lock though)

I also remember that they had internal code chips in the main brain and also in the remotes. Make sure they are all coded the same.

I think those systems also had the numeric keypad to allow you to set up the system and it plugged into an 8 pin din cable on the main brain. I don't know if you need that or not to get it working.

The system also had little microphone sensors (still have one mounted on my car) that I think were a mini plug and you could Y off and add more sensors if needed.

The manual I have also shows an internal memory reset button.

There was also a cover on the backside that had fuses underneath of it.

I hope the above helps some. I may still have an older manual that gets more specific somewhere (i kept a lot of that old stuff) and if I do I'll try and remember to add more info here on this site. 

Jim/Saint Louis

Another part I can think of was the tilt sensor. I took one apart years ago and it was kind of neat for it's time. The sensor had a weight assembly that hung down off of a pivot point (looked like a miniture baby cradle). When the system was armed an internal solenoid retracted in the tilt sensor and made a clunking sound and let the cradle swing down to close to level and then the solenoid would retract again allowing the cradle to become even more level and then de-energize and lock the cradle and sensor in a level position. If the car was moved more than 10 or 15 degree's from that level it would trip the system. I remember testing one back then and just before the tire came off the ground using a bumper jack the sensor tripped the system.

Another thing I recall was the starter interup relay. It was a small steel box (maybe 1.5" square on top and about 3" tall) with 2 10-12 gauge wires that went to the starter solenoid, the orange wire that went to the brain and a short black ground wire with a ring terminal on it. The neat thing about it was there was a rubber cover on the one end that had a rocker switch underneath to defeat the interupt should the system malfunction.

They also had neat pin switches back then (I used some on my 73 Nova a few years ago when I redid the car).

Boy, thinking about that system reminds me of how far this stuff has come.

Jim/Saint Louis