Relay config: rear defroster to alarm

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cpgoose

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Joined: July 08, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: January 02, 2004 at 10:31 AM / IP Logged

Hi...any ideas here would be greatly appreciated. I'm kind of in a catch-22. The alarm/remote start combo has a 1/2-second AUX output that I wanted to hook up to the rear defroster ('97 Civic). I went behind the switch in the dash, and there are 5 wires. Turns out that the blue / YELLOW wire shows 12v+ the whole time the defroster is on. So I tried to give it a quick 12v+ pulse, and the defroster turns on, and then off...so I guess I need to constantly give it 12v+.

SO....I used the relay configuration to convert the momentary signal to constant, and hooked up the output to the rear defroster, and it worked! The only problem is that it won't go off. I used 12v switched for the powering of the relay, so it won't go on when the car is off. But if I turn on the defroster, either remotely or manually at the switch, it won't turn off. I guess it still sees the 12v+ that's hooked up to the relay.

Any ideas? Here's a diagram of the rear defroster.

Relay config: rear defroster to alarm - Last Post -- posted image.

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xetmes

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Joined: May 18, 2003

Posted: January 02, 2004 at 12:12 PM / IP Logged

picture doesnt work.. You do want the switch on a timer like they are factory, im not really gonna say anything until i can see the schematic though..

cpgoose

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Posted: January 02, 2004 at 1:41 PM / IP Logged

Go figure...the site I was using for the image doesn't let you externally link anymore Relay config: rear defroster to alarm - Last Post -- posted image.

Here's the diagram:

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cpgoose

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Posted: January 05, 2004 at 2:53 PM / IP Logged

Any ideas now xetmes? I think the image should work now.

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xetmes

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Posted: January 05, 2004 at 4:41 PM / IP Logged

I have been looking at the diagram a few times, I am assuming the switch is a sealed unit with 5 terminals on it? The problem is they make the whole thing one sealed unit,by applying 12V to the blu / YELLOW you bypass the timer and transistor... hmmm... is there anyway to get the unit open? it would become much easier if you could open the unit...

hmm looking at the diagram more, is the switch a latching or rocker type switch? I thought it was a momentary type but now im not sure...?

Any idea how much a replacement switch costs? If it is cheap i would be more inclined to say try to get it open...

cpgoose

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Posted: January 06, 2004 at 7:19 AM / IP Logged

Hmmm....opening it could be an option, but I didn't want to go that far. I just didn't want to screw anything up, as everything is in very good condition.

The switch is just a push button, you push it and it comes on, you push it again and it goes off. It doesn't stay depressed or anything.

This is annoying (I guess it just works differently) because on my car which had a somewhat similar configuration, I was just able to momentarily give continuity to 2 wires, and the defroster came on. Then if I hit the remote button again, it would do the same thing but turn it off. I guess this one acts differently.

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mikeshonda750

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Joined: December 03, 2003

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Posted: January 07, 2004 at 8:17 PM / IP Logged

The best i can tell.. the blue/yel wire is your target. If you feed this 12v the relay will switch over and defroster will come on. You want to configure your relay(s) to convert a mommentary to a constant, i believe your problem lies in your power source.... or ground... The power source your using is just a 12v hot wire.... and the ground is a full time ground. You need to let your power/ground be isolated and completely ran by the remote starter.

If you want to, Diode isolate your parking light wire on your R/S mid-line. Run a wire off of your PL wire on the R/S side of the diode. Use this wire to trigger a relay..... in this setup.. the defroster will come on only when the R/S turns the parking lights on.... which has its downfall's... the defroster will come on each time the lights flash... which might not be good when locking/unlocking.... just an idea to toss out there....

any other output wires on the R/S constant + or - and you can do the same with them.

sroth140

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Joined: August 27, 2003

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Posted: January 15, 2004 at 2:09 PM / IP Logged

go buy a channel expander. i was fortunate enough my rs2 has a 4th channel output. i have it setup for latched/latched. i hit the button to give 12v and hit it again to take away 12v to the defogger. it gets the 12v from the ignition harness that way i can only activate the relay when the car is running, instead of being able to accidently turn the defogger on (if it was on 12v constant from the harness).

edit: or buy a timer relay. i think clifford matrix rs 3.5s come with a 5th channel output that can be set for 30, 60, or 90 sec timed. thats enough to clear light snow/fog.

cpgoose

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Location: United States

Posted: January 15, 2004 at 11:28 PM / IP Logged

Thanks for the replies!

I think mikeshonda is on the right track...I need to supply power to the blue / YELLOW wire of the defroster, but only while the remote starter is running.

sroth140, my problem is still that when the car is running, the defroster still sees the 12v+, and then won't turn off.

I drew up a quick diagram for the relay to grab 12v+ from the remote starter's ignition wire while the remote starter is running. Then, when the RS is off, the defroster won't see 12v+ from that wire because of the diode. Hmmm....will this work?

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Relay config: rear defroster to alarm

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