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How to Solder, beginners guide

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Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: February 11, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 12, 2004 at 12:23 PM / IP Logged  
I agree that soldering is best. Most cars these days have sensitive electronic equipment which can be damaged very easily and many of us, I'm sure, don't disconnect the battery everytime we play with the electrical system in the vehicle. So, while a butane powered iron would be ideal, is the electric iron something to be cautious about? ESD, etc..?
Platinum - Posts: 2,806
Platinum spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: February 23, 2004 at 11:45 AM / IP Logged  
I solder everything, all the time, but as far as butane or electric solder gun, Well, you can pry my solder gun from my cold dead hands. Just a personal preferance.
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: February 23, 2004 at 8:15 PM / IP Logged  
thanks that will make it a lot easer now that i hnow ho to
Silver - Posts: 662
Silver spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 24, 2004 at 8:41 PM / IP Logged  
If you touch the soldering iron to a metallic part of the car before you do anything, you will remove any ESD. Also you can wear a wrist strap that is connected to the chassis, to make sure ESD doesnt build up during the soldering project. We do that with computers for the same reason where a few millivolts can be hazardous to some micro chips. I guess cars too have computers/microchips in them and the same principle applies there too.
Copper - Posts: 105
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 27, 2004 at 6:15 PM / IP Logged  
Actully ~ A conventional soldering iron creates no ESD, so wearing a ground strap will do you no good, same with grounding your workpeice beforehand. The problem is elecrtical bleeding or "Electronic Leak", where the electricity used to generate the heat can actully pass through the heat exchange and out the tip of the iron/gun. This can be solved by grounding the head of the iron or using a "leakproof" iron. Can also be solved by using a butane model = ) just some info
Copper - Posts: 152
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 03, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: March 04, 2004 at 5:33 AM / IP Logged  

I've got a question:  I've done soldering over the years and it's nothing new, but I've forgotten some of the basics.  Perhaps you could refresh my memory.  If I decided to solder my speaker connections instead of standard crimp connectors , would I fry the voice coil?  Do I need to heat sink, and if so, where?

The reason why I ask is becuase I fried a 12" sub of mine 8 years ago when trying to solder the wire from the vc back on to the connector.

Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: March 25, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 25, 2004 at 2:24 PM / IP Logged  
butane, definitley butane. and if you can't get to a matco truck, radio shack has an awsome mini butane model 64-2188 for around 25.00. it works great. i use on all installations in the bay.
what do you think would happen if you hooked that wire to that wire :D
Silver - Posts: 662
Silver spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New York, United States
Posted: March 25, 2004 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged  
Why does it say that the product contains, or when used for soldering and similar applications produces, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects (or other reproductive harm)?
If it can cause cancer in Califirnia, it is not a safe product anywhere, is it?
I would definitely want this because that way you don't have to be near a power outlet for soldering. Only the cancer thing makes me worried. I have only one life. And I am not specially fond of doctors or hospitals or chemotherapy either.
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: January 26, 2004
Posted: April 01, 2004 at 4:41 PM / IP Logged  

bryceyaworsky, whenever I have room, I use hemostats on either side of my the solder connection to be made to act as heat sinks, thusly protecting any nearby heat sensitive components. another tip is when working on tightly packed circuit boards, use box cutter blades to act as shields by laying them between the solder point and sensitiveparts (chip legs, etc)

also, you can buy tinning compound, very cheap in a solid form contained in a small tin. it doubles as a tinner, and a tip cleaner. when doing a lot of soldering, or for extended times, use a wet sponge (wet with water), occasionally wiping the tip over it to keep it clean. It will temporarily cool the tip but keeping it clean will result in far less headaches and faster solder times.

an awesome tool is the vacu-suck (lol, made that name up) used to remove old solder. simply depress the plunger which remains c**ked and ready. heat up the solder to be removed and then hold the sucker's tip directly over. press the button and bam, the liquid solder is sucked into the unit for easy disposal later. no batteries or external power needed, yay!

flux-paste.. USE IT! you will fall in love but it is a good idea to remove any excess after through soldering

Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2004 at 4:59 PM / IP Logged  
Wicking! Thats when your solder flows under the insulation. usually caused by keeping the iron on the wires to long or when your in a hurry to repair a joint you just made and instead of waiting for it to cool, you immediately hit it again with the iron. Also, resin or flux is toxic and very corrosive. That's why it is used, it cleans the metal surface just as you're making the joint. solder in a well vented area, don't breathe in the fumes, and clean the resin/flux from your work with alcohol that doesn't contain water or something similar.
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