95 Silverado dies and stalls out randomly

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scrambler34

Member - Posts: 3

Joined: January 21, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: January 21, 2004 at 8:34 PM / IP Logged

95 Silverado dies and stalls out randomly

1500 C/K pickup dies and sometimes stalls while driving down the road or just in the drive way. When it does this, my dash board warning lights will all come on. Sometimes the warning lights do not always come on right after the engine dies. If they do not, I cannot start my truck. The truck will crank but will not start until the warning lights come on. Sometimes the engine will stall out but come back. When it does this, only my seatbelt warning light comes on and not the other warning lights. It seems the truck losses power at different intervals of time. I checked the battery cable already. It seems when I hit the blinker, move my tilt or put it in gear it triggers this but yet I don’t have to touch anything, just sitting in park it will die or stall out. This randomly happens too. I installed an Avital remote starter on 11/2/02 and didn’t have a problem until 9/16/03. When installing the remote starter, I tested the wires with a light tester and read later that you should not do this, it could cause damage. They don't explain what could happen. Did I hurt something? Any tests that I should run? Any input would be helpful and appreciated. Thanks.

mikeshonda750

Copper - Posts: 105

Joined: December 03, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: January 21, 2004 at 8:55 PM / IP Logged

How did you make your connections? BTW your test light did nothing "bad". What started the problem with test lights was they could set off air bag's because essentially, when you probe that wire to see if its hot or not, you really just grounded that vehicle wire out... tricking it into thinking it needed to deploy the air bags. Next in line is the on board computers. ECM/BCM/EXT.. by simply supplying a ground (or 12v) to the wrong wire can have drastic effects on it.. sometimes burning it up.. or making the operation undesired.

In effect, using a test light would be the equivillant of wearing a few sweaters, walking around your shag carpeted floor dragging your feet and working on the motherboard inside your PC.... electricity.. static or not, can be dangerous to these intricate(sp?) parts.

So yeah.... bet you cut your wires and butt spliced them (or scotch locked, t-tapped, crimp cap) together eh? I would, without seeing the truck, blame it on a bad connection. What you need to do is have someone (who will do it for free... or a 12pack of bud light) that KNOWS how to solder crawl under the dash and atleast solder your ignition wires together... bet thats the problem.

I dont want to start a debate on solder/everything else with ANYONE, just offering professional advice. Think of soldering as welding. Would you rather have someone weld your trailer hitch to your truck, or simply use aluminum foil and wrap it around the frame 95 Silverado dies and stalls out randomly -- posted image. hahaha

Good luck man! Let us know

sparkie

Platinum - Posts: 2,061

Joined: November 06, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 22, 2004 at 2:52 PM / IP Logged

You may have a defective ignition switch or check to see if the ignition harness plugs are pulling out somewhere inside or at the base of the steering column.

sparky

Teken

Gold - Posts: 1,492

Joined: August 04, 2002

Location: Aruba

Posted: January 22, 2004 at 5:17 PM / IP Logged

The most accurate thing to do is simply get the codes read from the dealer, unless you have a scan tool.

That will narrow down the possibilities very quickly. The problem is that you do not know if it is a spark, fuel, or a combination of the two.

Both of which you need to make the vehicle operate. If you have not done any maintenance on the vehicle for sometime.

Then I would seriously take a hard look at the basic fuel and ignition system. Below are the most basic things to look for, and to really look carefully to see that each area is indeed operational.

1. Spark plugs = worn, burnt, contaminated (rich / lean) condition.

2. Igition wires = Broken or frayed wires, internal resistance is too high.

3. Distributor cap = Contacts are worn, broken, corroded, or arching due to carbon tracking.

4. Dist Rotor: SImply worn down below its limits.

5. Fuel pump, relay, filter = Any of the 3 will cause erractic behaviour. Normally you can hear the pump prime, and if it makes a buzz that is a sure sign. If your MPG has dropped off alot then that would indicate a clogged filter. If the vehicle is OK when cold, but becomes erratic when hot, then that points to the relay.

5. If you have a external coil or a ignitor, those are two things that will cause the same problems you have listed.

6. Power: You need to varify that your electrical charging system is indeed fully operational. Perform a AVR test, and that will tell you if the alternator is actually supplying the current to run the vehicle.

Do not simply rely on the idiot light. It never comes on, when its suppose to.

7. Air filter: Regardless of what people tell you, if a filter is actually clogged, it will stall a vehicle.

8. Timing: If the timing is off the vehicle will be erractic, and stumble, and loss of power will be seen.

9. Loose belts, check all deflection rates of all belts to see that none of them are slipping.

Those are the most common things that every one should check first. But it would be quicker and more efficient to have the codes declared from the ECU to be known.

Other wise you are simply guessing, and trial by error will get you no where fast, but upset...

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

mikeshonda750

Copper - Posts: 105

Joined: December 03, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: January 22, 2004 at 5:42 PM / IP Logged

The main reason i blame the ignition wiring and or R/S install is because of what he described. Taking it to the dealer will yeild weak results because there wont be any codes to pull. The way i see it, you dont have a driveability problem, you have an electrical problem. Remember, one of those ignition wires supplies power to the ECM on that vehicle, if you give it no power, your gauges (or warning lights such as check engine) will not light up, and the truck will crank all day but never attempt to fire up. What i would recommend is pulling the lower part of the dash back off and while the truck is running.. pull on your R/S & Ignition wires and see if you cannot get it to screw up. Actully, i ran into a problem on a bravada that was about the same... would die occasionally... ended up tracing it to the ECM and found it was a 12v ignition wire... whoever installed the unit years ago probed the wires at the ECM lookin for a tach wire and it greened out on em...

Let us know what you find

scrambler34

Member - Posts: 3

Joined: January 21, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: January 23, 2004 at 6:54 PM / IP Logged

Thank you all for the responses but I feel its an electrical problem b/c of the dash lights turning off.

I think mikeshonda750 is on the right track, though. I haven't gotten out there yet, I'm in Defiance, OH so I'm getting all the snow your getting Mike. All my wires are soldered too. Could the car starter itself be faulting? I'm going to check the wires this weekend.

Thank you all.

Scrambler34

mikeshonda750

Copper - Posts: 105

Joined: December 03, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: January 23, 2004 at 8:04 PM / IP Logged

Hey no problem at all man. Yes its snowing like crazy up here... expecting 2-4 on top of the 2-4 we got today ~ Insane.

Im quite honestly pleased that you soldered your wiring, but thats a whole different discussion. Im assuming that because you soldered, you didnt actully cut the wires, simply bared them back and tied in that way. Its a place to start atleast. I do strongly believe your problem lies within the steering colum/harness because of what you described. I do suppose its entirely possible that one of your R/S wires is doing it, but not the unit itself. In that i mean, a wire that is grounding out that is running from the ignition harness to the R/S unit itself. Beyond that, its simply a guessing game. One way to troubleshoot it would be to test the ignition wires while it is not starting. Naturally if your primary ignition wire is getting no juice you can trace that back up the colum to the lock cylinder and you may find out the factory plug is simply loose or corroded.

Good luck man, and enjoy the snow!!

Olddoc

Member - Posts: 3

Joined: February 14, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: February 23, 2004 at 1:57 AM / IP Logged

i agree with spakiee i think you have a problem with the ing switch or the circiut coil will not control your lights and stuff

scrambler34

Member - Posts: 3

Joined: January 21, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: March 14, 2004 at 11:26 AM / IP Logged

hey guys sorry it took so long but i found out what the problem was with my ignition. There is a connecting box under my ignition switch, in the steering column, that connects the wires to the ignition switch. if i move this box around, the truck stalls out. i haven't taken the box off yet so i don't know if i need to replace it or what. is there a name for this box? Thank you all for your help.

Scrambler34

sroth140

Silver - Posts: 513

Joined: August 27, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 17, 2004 at 2:12 AM / IP Logged

is it an actual plug in harness? it could be the wires from te remote start have been pulling on or otherwise stressing the harness and it worked loose.

MECP certified installer

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