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'04 mazda 6, you must use relays’?


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proinstall 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2004 at 2:38 PM / IP Logged  

Why is this? Lock and unlock are the same wire, lock is a negative trigger through a 1.4k ohm resistor.. and unlock is straight negative trigger..

So can't you just put a resistor in line with the (-) lock output? and just run the (-) unlock ouput straight to the same wire?

Same thing for factory alarm arm and disarm, 1 wire, 1.4k for arm, ground for disarm..

Anyone?

mxxmikexx 
Silver - Posts: 796
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 18, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2004 at 3:18 PM / IP Logged  
because most alarm/remote start modules use a transistor output for lock and unlock and that is not a strong enough pulse to make things work, thats why you need to use relays to provide a strong enough ground pulse.
Mike Battaglia
Specialized Car Audio
Bensenville IL 60106
proinstall 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2004 at 3:27 PM / IP Logged  

also.. do you know the tolerance? can I use a 1.5k ohm resistor?

thanks for all the help man!

JMaxx93 
Copper - Posts: 73
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 02, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2004 at 3:53 PM / IP Logged  
i beleive you can use  a 1.5 what you can do is just tap the ground resistor to the wire and find out if it unlocks it.  also another reason for the relay is most alarms use unlock/lock wire that switch polarity so that would also cause conflicts if they are on the same wire.
mxxmikexx 
Silver - Posts: 796
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 18, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2004 at 4:12 PM / IP Logged  
i just checked the audiovox wire info and it does say to use a 1.5k resistor, and i would do what jmaxx just said and tap the wire to a good ground with the resistor and make sure it works, thats what i always do.
Audiovox Tech Support 505670 FaxBack ID:
MAZDA 6 2004 4DR SEDAN I WITH 2.3L ENGINE
Security Color Polarity Location
Battery BLACK OR BLACK / YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/ BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
All Door Trigger YELLOW (-) INTERIOR LIGHT UNDER DASH
- Note CAN ALSO BE FOUND AS GREEN/ ORANGE IN DRIVER'S KICK PANEL (-)
Trunk Trigger BROWN (-) DRIVER'S KICK PANEL
Hood Trigger GREY/RED AT PIN UNDER THE HOOD
Alarm Disarm WHITE/ BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
- Note THIS IS THE KEY IN SENSE WIRE. GIVE THIS WIRE 12 VOLTS AND IT WILL SHUT DOWN THE FACTORY ALARM
Parking Lights LT.GREEN/ BLACK (+) DRIVER'S KICK PANEL
Low Crr Pk Lights RED / WHITE (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Remote Start
Battery BLACK OR BLACK / YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2 BLACK/ RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 BLACK/ WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 2 BLACK/ RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/ BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type IMMOBILEIZER
Anti-Theft Descript TRANSPONDER
- Note WILL NEED TO USE THE FACTORY RING TO BYPASS THIS SYSTEM
Key Sense WHITE/ BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
- Note SEE FACTORY DISARM WIRE.
Tachometer USE NON COMMON COLOR AT THE COIL PACK OR INJECTORS
- Note CAN ALSO BE FOUND AS A LT.GREEN/ RED INSIDE VEHICLE ON DRIVER'S SIDE AGAINST FIREWALL COMING IN
FROM ENGINE COMPATMENT IN A RUBBER BOOT.
Parking Lights LT.GREEN/ BLACK (+) DRIVER'S KICK PANEL
Low Crr. Pk Lights RED / WHITE (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Brake Lights GREEN (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Doorlocks/Windows
Power Unlock BLUE OR GREEN (-) AT KEYLESS ENTRY UNIT
- Note STRAIGHT GROUND TO UNLOCK
THE KEYLESS ENTRY MOD IS LOCATED IN THE PASSENGER'S KICK PANEL NEAR THE GLOVEBOX
PowerLock BLUE OR GREEN (-) AT KEYLESS ENTRY UNIT
- Note GROUND THROUGH A 1.5 OHM RESISTOR TO LOCK
Driver Mtr Unlock RED / GREEN (REV) DRIVER'S DOOR HARNESS BEHIND COMPUTER NEAR FIREWAL
Driver Mtr Lock RED / BLUE (REV) DRIVER'S DOOR HARNESS BEHIND COMPUTER NEAR FIREWAL
Pas Mtr Unlock RED / BLACK (REV) AT BREAK-OUT HARNESS UNDER DRIVER'S SEAT
LF Window Up GREEN (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
LF Window Dn RED (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
RF Window Up GREEN (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
RF Window Dn RED (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
LR Window Up GREEN (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
LR Window Dn RED (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
RR Window Up GREEN (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
RR Window Dn RED (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
Convenience
Wipers-Lo GRAY (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Wipers-Hi YELLOW/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Modules
Module 1 PCM - POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE - BEHIND LEFT SIDE
Module 2 DOORLOCK CONTROL MODULE - BEHIND RIGHT SIDE OF DASH
Audio/Mobile Video
Battery BLUE/RED (+) RADIO HARNESS
Mike Battaglia
Specialized Car Audio
Bensenville IL 60106
proinstall 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2004 at 11:27 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks guys.. no need for relays with the compustar, and the 1.5k ohm resistor did the trick..

as for the disarm/rearm of the factory alarm, I just used the keysense wire.. works great :) thanks guys

proinstall 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 29, 2004 at 9:13 AM / IP Logged  

Well.. I thought it did.. it seems that pulsing the keysense wire DOES NOT shut down the factory alarm.. any ideas?

I know the wiring is correct, I know I have the correct keysense wire and I know the rem start pulses 12V on it.. but the alarm still goes off..

proinstall 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 29, 2004 at 10:42 PM / IP Logged  
anyone??

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