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How do I know what IGN 1 and IGN 2 are?

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dj hellfire 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 21, 2004 at 5:07 PM / IP Logged  

2002 Hyundai Elantra

MY wirimg diagram for the ignition harness says that the IGN 1 and 2 wires are red.  It doesn't give the Pin numbers and there are 4 red wires.  It's a 6 pin harness.  I have this one but it's not detailed:

http://www.designtech-intl.com/Content/techsupport/wirecolors/VehicleDetail?modelID=1537

Velocity Motors 
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Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: March 21, 2004 at 5:30 PM / IP Logged  
primary ignition has power in the RUN & CRANK positions of the cylinder. 2nd IGN wire will have the same charateristics as the primary IGN wire, but some manufacturer's have the 2nd IGN wire loose power during the CRANK and has power in the RUN position
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Teamrf 
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Joined: January 13, 2004
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Posted: March 21, 2004 at 11:00 PM / IP Logged  
You should get another tech sheet.
~The Rookie~
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dj hellfire 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 21, 2004 at 11:28 PM / IP Logged  
When you say crank, do you mean car all the way on but engine off?  When you say run, do you mean the first on position without the cluster lights?
dj hellfire 
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Member spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 21, 2004 at 11:38 PM / IP Logged  

...cuz I installed my remote starter today in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra and it's working funny.  It's a design tech starter.  This diagram says that my ign harness start  wire is white and my accessory is yellow, but the remote starter won't start when connected like this.  It only starts with these two wires switched.  Also, on the alarm section of this diagram, it says that my white wire at the ign harness is for the starter kill.  I don't get that.  This diagram is from the manufacturer of the remote starter:  http://http://www.designtech-intl.com/Content/techsupport/wirecolors/VehicleDetail?modelID=1537

When the car does start, it runs perfectly for only 2 secs.  Then it sounds like the starter tries to start the car again while it is already running, the lights dim, and then the engine starts making this wierd grinding noise like it is being ruined.  Anyone familiar with this problem?

NowYaKnow 
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Joined: December 18, 2002
Posted: March 22, 2004 at 12:18 AM / IP Logged  
Did you see the note at the bottom?
"Notes: * Some Models Are Equipped With A Transponder Immobilizer System. See Installation Note #144 - Bypassing Transponder Theft Systems."
This may be your problem as to why the car doesn't stay running. It also could be a tach programming issue or something else. Try placing the key in the ignition cylinder (don't turn it at all) and then remote start the car to see if it stays running. If so, you need a bypass for that car. If not, then there's some other problem with the install. Every diagram I see is listing the starter wire as white, ign 1 and 2 as red and red, and accessory as yellow. Also from the sound of it your just hooking up wires blindly without testing. Information is hardly ever 100% accurate if your not verifying your wires there's a good chance you might fry something! You should get a decent DMM or AT LEAST a $4 test light from walmart would be better than nothing. Good luck,
Mike
dj hellfire 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 22, 2004 at 12:48 AM / IP Logged  

The car does start now.

I did use a test light.  I found IGN 1 and IGN 2.  There was a wire on the starter brain I needed to snip for it to start. 

It won't start with the "start" and "accesory" wires hooked up according to the diagram.  I have to switch them to make it start.  When the car does start, it runs perfectly for only 2 secs.  Then it sounds like the starter tries to start the car again while it is already running, the lights dim, and then the engine starts making this wierd grinding noise like it is being ruined.  Anyone familiar with this problem?

Here's the colors for start and acc:

My car

Start = White
Acc = Yellow

The starter

Start = Yellow
Acc = White

Now, according to the car diagram and starter diagram, I should be connecting S White to S Yellow and A Yellow to A White.  It won't work this way which is the right way.  It only works White to White and Yellow to Yellow which is the wrong way, but it starts.  But when it starts, it's follow by the funny noise I mention above.  I don't get this crap!

NowYaKnow 
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Posted: March 22, 2004 at 1:06 AM / IP Logged  
Is it a design tech remote starter? If so the dark blue wire is your ign 1, green is ign 2, yellow is starter, pink is constant, white is accessory. Double check the module to make sure your wires are plugged onto the right pins. I've seen that little sticker on the module not labeled correctly before so check the install instructions to double check. Another thing to try is to test all the outputs of the module using your test light. Put your test light on the yellow wire off of the module and hit the remote start this wire should ONLY light the test light while the remote start is cranking and not any other time. The green and blue wires should light the test light as soon as you hit the remote start button, and stay on right through crank and remain on until you shut off the remote start. The white wire should light the test light when you first activate the remote start, and then drop out while the remote start cranks, and return on after it is done cranking and remain on until the remote start is shut off. Atfer you have verified that all the wires are correct, do the same thing except this time instead of using the remote start, use the key and verify all your wires. Also check the programming information to be sure that the ign 2 green wire is programmed as an ignition wire and not an accessory wire. Older design tech units this is in the programming, newer design tech this is a dip switch inside the module. Also as long as you have initialized the unit, cut the in gear green loop (older models) or flip the dip switch inside the module. As mentioned from all diagrams yellow from module should go to white in car and white from module should go to yellow in car. Also are you using tach? If you are going tachless program option 3 for extended crank it might not be cranking long enough. Also where did you hookup power from? If it isn't a solid source it might not be sensing the voltage rise properly.
NowYaKnow 
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Gold spacespace
Joined: December 18, 2002
Posted: March 22, 2004 at 1:11 AM / IP Logged  
"When the car does start, it runs perfectly for only 2 secs. Then it sounds like the starter tries to start the car again while it is already running, the lights dim, and then the engine starts making this wierd grinding noise like it is being ruined"
By switching those 2 wires and having the ACC wire to the starter wire, when activating the remote start it would start up, then when the ACC wire is supposed to drop out during crank, it would continue running for 2 seconds and then when the ACC wire turns back on after cranking, it would just grind your starter indefinately until you shut off the remote start. When you activate the remote start, does it turn on the ignition for a few seconds and THEN crank, or does it turn on the ignitions and crank right away. If right away, definately sounds like my scenario is right. It's possible it doesn't work when switched because the remote start isn't putting out to the starter wire (yellow). So test that output first. I dunno just throwing some ideas out there good luck let us know what it turns out to be.
Mike
dj hellfire 
Member - Posts: 39
Member spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 22, 2004 at 7:37 PM / IP Logged  

I found the problem.  The module is bad.  When I put the test light to the starter pin of the module and push the transmitter button, the test light DOES NOT light up.  This is why the car will not start when all the wires are hooked up correctly.  The module is not sending voltage to my starter.  When I do this same test at the accessory pin of the module, the test light does light up until the system shuts down.  I called the tech hot line and they verified this problem by having me run the test (even though I had already did it).  They said that they will still replace it even though it is 2 years old and I have no receipt or packaging.  Guess I'll do that.  Thanks guys.


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