convert momentary loss of ground to 12v?

Yes, the meter appears well.  I took it apart today to check everything out, just in case something was loose in there meter.  All looked well, I even replaced the fuses just in case...

I have pretty much narrowed it down to the brain.  I took the case off and it looked brand new as it should, I am assuming I just got a bad unit or I shorted something internal, not visible to me.  That fact that it is grounded at rest and nothing at pulse (exactly opposite as it should be) leads me to believe some nitwit did something backwards, including any machines that made it! :)  ...or me, the nitwit, did something to fry it. 

The worst part is, of course, that I have no warranty because I did not take it to an authorized installer.  The seller is just as much of a pain in the ass as Firstech (compustar), so looks like I am out 280 bucks! :(

Too bad too, it was a nice unit with all kinds of neat little bells and whistles.

Mike

PS - I wish there was some way I could rig it off the sequencing of the parking light output, one flash is lock and two is unlock.  Hmm, any special equipment out there to do this that doesn't cost thousands to digitize the signal and all that BS? 

https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#3wp

Use that diagram to verify you have wired it like that. Once you know its wired correctly and if it still doesnt work try this. Disconnect the alarm outputs from the relays. Take a piece of wire and hold one end on a good ground then touch the other end to one of the relays on the pin that you pulled off the alarm output wire. It should cause your locks to unlock or lock. Then touch the wire to the other relay on the pin where your alarm connected to it. The locks should now do opposite of what they did on first relay. Grounding the side of the coil that connects to the alarm will simulate a grounded output from the alarm. If this test makes your locks work but they dont work when connected to the alarm then your alarm outputs are bad.