I have been reading this list with great zeal and interest! Finally, somebody gets it! Thank you Forbidden and DYohn. I would like to add my own two cents, here if I could... And I am NOT saying you guys are wrong in ANY respect, just further clarifying... It is true, that low power can damage a speaker faster than high power can, however, it will typically happen to more delicate drivers (read: tweeters) first. What really happens is this: When an amplifier clips, it is producing a high level DC voltage, (how high depends on the amplifier rated output) but if you examine that DC voltage with enough resolution, you will see it is not really DC at all, but EXTREMELY high frequency AC, superimposed over a high level DC, and this happens because the transistor output devices cannot pass a true DC with any efficiency. This high level AC is treated as a DC by the relatively high inductance of a woofer voice coil, but as the actual AC waveform by a tweeter crossover network. When the tweeter crossover passes this on to the tweeter, the tweeter then is working at a duty cycle that is FAR too high, and the AVERAGE power seen by the tweeter VC is FAR too high, Even though the total power provided by the amplifier may be well within acceptable ratings for the tweeter... (example: a 25 watt amp on a 50 watt tweeter) and *pop*, we have sss. This does not apply the same for woofers. A woofer is a MUCH higher power dissapation device. If you have a woofer that is rated 500 watts, this is USUALLY the CONTINUOUS power that the voice coil can dissapate. This rating will be affected by the honesty and integrity of the manufacturer, but a good indication is: If the manufacturer will supply you with voice coil dimensions (length and height), thay are probably pretty honest about their ratings - nothing to be afraid of. If you get a woofer with a 20 ounce magnet and you see a power rating of 1000 watts, or if you are buying a 500 watt woofer for 15 bucks, RUN, do not walk, away. (This pretty much means ANYTHING you will be buying at a Swap-O-Rama). Back to what I was saying: I used a couple of phrases above that are again germaine to the discussion, AVERAGE POWER and DUTY CYCLE. If your 100 watt clipping amplifier is producing only 100 watts (at clipping) and you have a woofer rated an honest 500 watts, all that will likely happen is your tunes will sound like crap! It is not likely that you will damage the woofer quickly, (oh, do not get me wrong, it WILL damage it eventually, ESPECIALLY if you driver is in a generic box, as opposed to a box that is built based on the specifications of the woofer!, but that is another discussion altogether) As examples of this previously stated theory I give you the stereo system in my Civic. I have 80 watts (x2) running the Infinity tweeters (rated 10 watts) in my doors, 370 watts (x2) running the Morel MW-162 mid-bass drivers (rated 120 watts) 120 watts (x4) running the Eclipse 6X9 point source (with modified crossover and wiring input) and the Eclipse 4000 watt digital monster running the SW9122 from Eclipse (rated 1500 watts). I have NEVER replaced a single driver for lack of power, additionally, I can listen quite loudly, (on average) and because I have so much power, the amplifiers will never clip should a dynamic passage demand more power. Anyway, enough bragging, and I hope that this little note will help further the understanding of high vs. low power and speaker behavior when faced with either.