Any alarms w/ just accessories channels?

Get a Keyless entry module.  reffered to as a "KE" round these parts.

L and UL will work off one button, and they usually have a trunk a button ( that can work the windows).

 If it has a starter kill, you can use that to determine the direction of the windows ( ie when the doors are locked ... and the SK is armed.... the windows go UP when you press trunk)

Are you adding the solenoids, for the locks , or are they OEM ?... this will affect the way you wire the relays.

I won't have locks period, I am adding solenoids.  This is for my hotrod.  So I'll have bear claw latches attached to solenoids, and power windows hooked up to a switch and module (gotta find one though).  How would I wire up the KE for use w/ solenoids.  So that I can press one button, open one door, and the same button or the 2nd button to open the other door?  I'm under the impression that the first time you press an unlock button, it flows one way, then the 2nd time, it reverses the polarity.  Thanks for taking the time to help me.

http://www.eccentrix.com/members/jhnbrackett/Bub.html

I want to look for the same thing.  I already have an alarm installed but I was wondering if there is a way to add another remote just to control the windows up and down.  I assume I would need to get another reciever unit.  Which one do you guys suggest?

Thank you.

Keyless entries may or may not have large enough relays or large enough amperage outputs to wire directly to your door solenoids. If they don’t then the small amperage signal off of the keyless entry can be wired to external relays to handle your solenoids. Most outputs on the main control units can be changed from positive to negative outputs and external relays can be wired to switch voltages or grounds.

Solenoids for unlatching the doors so they open only pull one way and only need to be wired as a single action and not wired in a reverse polarity wiring.

Here’s some ways to do some wiring (3 button remote control): Use the door lock output to send a signal to a window module for roll up. Use the door unlock output to send a signal to a window module for window roll down. Use a second channel output for the driver’s door. Use a third channel output for the passenger door.

The biggest thing I’ve found out with Hot Rods or wiring in general is to run an added ground wire from the solenoid in the door to the interior of the vehicle if it is a self grounding type. Do not rely on the door as a good chassis ground.

If you are running the door jamb contact buttons, make sure they can handle the current needed so they do not create a voltage drop (if one contact can only handle 10 amps and you need to run 15 amps for something double up the contacts so now the two contacts can handle 20 amps total). If you can run wires from the door solenoids and window motors directly to the control units for them and try to steer away from the contact buttons for less voltage drop and it will also allow you to work the windows whether the door is opened or closed. The contact buttons only make contact when the door is closed.

If you get a keyless entry with more outputs than you need now you could always later upgrade later to pop open the trunk or add a trunk lid lift.

One last thing, the better window modules will learn how much current the windows need to fully raise or lower them and they also have safety breakers inside of them should they encounter an obstruction when operating.

Jim