Box Issues to consider

OK, I like to get dirty on the weekends and I'm gonna build myself a box for one 10" SW8102.4.  I have built several boxes with good sucess but would like to try something different.  I want to use 3/4" fiber force with a venier (like oak or cherry, etc.) and 1" for the front.  Basically it will be a 14.5" cube with roughly 1.2 CuFt internal volume.  But unlike the nomal butt joint with screws, would a 45º mider with heavy glue and some finish nails survive?  That way there is no board end exposed or screws visible and the hardwood venier could be stained and poly'ed.  A more smooth look like cabinetry.  If this is absolutly doomed any other suggestions?

No, that is fine, although I recomend you put a 1" X 1" brace inside each corner screwed to the side walls for seam strength, as glue and nails won't stand up to subwoofer pressure.  Also, a perfect cube is not the best shape for an enclosure, but go for it and see how it sounds.Support the12volt.com

No cube eh.  How should I dimension it then?  Deeper front to back or shallower?

Well the "perfect" enclosure shape is determined by the "Golden Ratio," which is 0.62 :1.0 : 1.62 and is used because it spreads the internal resonances of the cabinet over the broadest frequency range.   This is a very important consideration in building acoustic suspension (sealed) full-range enclosures, and somewhat less important for subs.  But I still try to stay as close to it as possible when designing enclosures.Support the12volt.com

Dyohm, would you mind taking a look at my most recent post and tell me what you think about that? It has to do with resonance, but instead of inside the box, im tlaking about inside the vehicle. Lemme know what you think.