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Wiring 4 Channel Amp to 1 DVC Sub


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darcsyde17404 
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Member spacespace
Joined: March 29, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 05, 2004 at 12:51 PM / IP Logged  

I have a RF Punch 800 A4 (4 channel amp) and i wanna hook up one kicker L5 DVC sub (4ohm) to it, should i just bridge each coil? Or is there a better way to get the most power from the amp?

thanks!

stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 05, 2004 at 1:42 PM / IP Logged  

Dual 4 ohm sub, wire to 2 ohm by paralleling voice coils, then......get a class D mono amp.  And save the 4 channel amp for speakers.  Now, if you were to connect each voice coil to two channels, what you've described is the best way you'll get the most power from that amp.  But wiring each coil to a separate amplifier is not recommended (consider a 4 channel amp as two separate amps).  Voice coils should be wired together before connection to an amp.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
forbidden 
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Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: June 05, 2004 at 6:48 PM / IP Logged  
You can indeed wire it the way you are thinking and it will be astable load for the amp to run, however it is not in the subs best interest to run this way. I too would go for a different amp.
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Drey 
Member - Posts: 35
Member spacespace
Joined: April 17, 2003
Location: Andorra
Posted: June 05, 2004 at 11:52 PM / IP Logged  
yes, please put a mono amp on that, you'll never get the gain right to evenly distribute the power to bot the coils
mikedawg 
Copper - Posts: 142
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 12, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 08, 2004 at 9:59 PM / IP Logged  
no no no no, get a class D amp. the amp your using is a class A amp. youre gonna cause too much heat, mess up your amp and maybe sub, and probably cause a fire in your trunk. use that amp for your mids and buy a new amp
always looking for new info and willing to give it
stevdart 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 08, 2004 at 10:31 PM / IP Logged  
echo...echo...echo...echo...echo...but seriously, fire is not the potential problem here.  It's just a ghetto rig to try it that way and the subwoofer's life expectancy will be severely shortened.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Ravendarat 
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Joined: February 23, 2004
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Posted: June 08, 2004 at 10:37 PM / IP Logged  
ya mikedwag thats the first time I have ever heard of that argument. First off that amp is class A/B not class A. There is a world of difference in those two. Second off running a class A/B amp for subs is perfectly acceptable and is done all the time. How do you think they did it when there were no Class D amps, they havent been around forever. But to the original question, unless you have the right equipment to perfectly match gains what you are doing is a bad Idea and shouldnt be done. Either parrel and bridge like someone else said or just get another amp to run your sub, which someone else also said. Either way trying to use the whole amp to run that one sub would be ill advised.
double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
mikedawg 
Copper - Posts: 142
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 12, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 09, 2004 at 12:30 PM / IP Logged  
oh really, well tell that to my friend who has a 2 foot burn circle in his trunk. im  not saying that cause im guessing. ive seen it happen. and you say echo echo, but good job repeating the same sh*t i just said.
always looking for new info and willing to give it
forbidden 
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Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: June 09, 2004 at 12:48 PM / IP Logged  

Hmmmm, been selling and installing many many years now, seen many burned up amplifiers in my days and most of them were the new breed of class D mono amps. Ravendarat is correct, in the days before class D there was class AB and they work mighty fine, in some cases far superior to class D as well. Class A is a totally inefficent amp but it sure is a stellar sounding amplifier, Class AB is a combination of better efficientcy and respectable sound and class D is designed for high output, low heat applications. An amplifier in any case is designed to get hot, if an amp is not getting hot, it is not doing it's job. Heat is a natural byproduct of producing power in any form.

If your friend has a two foot burn circle in his trunk, then he had something covering the heatsink and is damn lucky that it did not start a fire. The flip side to this is that his amp dead shorted and the main power wire was not fused at the battery and this dead short started a fire at the amp (iproper installation). At the far far reaches of possibilities, he had bought an amplifier that had a non functioning thermal switch. No offence dude (looks for BS flag) but I do not believe that story. Been doin this for way to long and know a load of smelly material when I see it.

Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Ravendarat 
Platinum - Posts: 2,806
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Joined: February 23, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: June 09, 2004 at 11:50 PM / IP Logged  
Ya, there is no way in any form of hell that the amp running the sub caused this if the equipment is functioning fine. Even if he wired a 4 ohm stable amp down to half ohm the amp isnt gonna start a fire because of that. It would shut off first or just blow, but not a fire. I mean like im the biggest bs I know and that reeks of it. Now you can begin your long string of cursing and calling my mother a whore and what not because your pissed off we called you on this, so let it begin.
double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
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