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Starter Kill & Transponder bypass?


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vl4d 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: July 18, 2004
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: July 18, 2004 at 3:00 AM / IP Logged  
Ok...I'm an amateur so please bear with me...I just installed a CrimeStopper 2016fm on my 03 Honda Element. I have three problems:
1. After remote starting, I get in the car and put my key in the ignition. The starter grinds as soon as I turn the key. I am assuming I need to intall a starter kill but how do I do it. Can I connect both the Starter Kill relay and the Transponder bypass module to the same "Ground when running" wire from the alarm?
2. I cannot find the tach wire in the 03 Element. I conneced to the blue cable close to the battery, - as described in the wiring diagram - but it wasn't working right. Once in a while it would start and stay on but most of the time it would start and turn right back off 2 seconds later. I changed back to smart tackless mode but now it starts twice each time I try to remote start. It starts and stops and immetiately restarts. Should I change the reference voltage on the smart tachless mode or can youguys recomment where I might find that tach wire?
3. Also , when remote started, the car sounds very diffferent than when started with the key. Is this normal?
Thanks for all your help. Question number 1 is most important right now so please answer it first.
eurotech 
Member - Posts: 44
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 18, 2004 at 3:48 AM / IP Logged  
Ok, #1 starter kill has nothing to do with your grinding issue...I would say that #2 (not having tach) would be your culprit there.  It sounds like you might have the right tach wire...but did you program the brain properly?  Does your car have a factory immobilizer...because thats what it sounds like to me.  What does the car sound like when it is remote-started?  pardon my ignorance but I am not too familliar with Crimestopper products.
vl4d 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: July 18, 2004
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: July 18, 2004 at 10:42 AM / IP Logged  
Its hard to describe how the car sounds but its almost like its "half started." It makes a lot less noise than normal and it sounds "dry". Again, I just don't know how else to describe it.
As far as the starter kill, I've been looking at diagrams and it appears to me that the starter kill would prevent the grinding. Am I tottaly off my rocker here? And if I do need to install it, can I connect both starter kill and transponder bypass to the same wire on the alarm?
Ok...thanks a lot for your answers. I'm going outside to keep working on the car but I'll check back soon.
swamprat323 
Gold - Posts: 1,335
Gold spacespace
Joined: September 22, 2002
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 18, 2004 at 1:16 PM / IP Logged  
Did you put a meter to the tach wire to make sure that ws the right one.
Do you ahve in the programing mode a "anti-grind" turn on.
When you put your key in do not turn in to crank only to ON.
looking through a manural did not find the 2016 but do see the 2015 shoul dbe close enouh if not the same.
if you using the smart tach disconect the tach wire.
did you go through the tach learn mode adn did it learn the tach?
TownAndcountry 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: July 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 18, 2004 at 3:14 PM / IP Logged  

The tach must be properly "learned" from the brain. That vehicle most likely does have a transponder factory security system, so you would need to bypass it. Usualy with a spare key. In order for  there to be an anti-grind or starter kill, you have to interupt the starter wire, meaning cutting it, then using relays to control the current. I would disconnect the starter wire from the heavy guage relay pack, if there is one, then remote start it and see how long it shows 12 volts during a remote start cycle, with a meter only. You may also be able to use a crank time settings instead of tach. This is not the best way, but with newer vehicles that start right up with no problems, a voltage sense/ crank time may be the way to go.Just remember that you may need to adjust the crank time. Some remote starts can have up to 3 seconds, which is very high, so check that out. When all else fails, have an installer trouble shoot it or get yourself a DEI product.

  T&C

tjdurham 
Copper - Posts: 180
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: July 18, 2004 at 5:00 PM / IP Logged  

there is nothing wrong with crimestopper, you do have to learn tach or use voltage sense on that model just unplug the heavy remote start harness and turn your headlights on for 5 minutes to take the top off the battery (umhook the tach wire) and replug the harness the Element has a transponder standard so you do have to bypass that use your grey key in a universal box bypass also are you stopping turning the key at on or are you going all the way to crank if so stop turning at ignition on if you cant figure it out call crimestopper and ask for Larry or Jose in tech x217 18009986880

tj
vl4d 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: July 18, 2004
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: July 18, 2004 at 6:02 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for all your suggestions guys....
Maybe a little more info will be helpful:
1. With the exception of the remeote starter, the alarm works fine.
2. I have already installed a transponder bypass (pkh3-II, keyless) and it works fine.
3. I found the test connector by the battery, which is supposted to be where my tach is but when I read it with a multimeter in A/C mode, it reads 13.6 volts and does not move when I accelerate. (The gauge in the dashboard does move)
4. I switched back to tachless mode. When I press the remote start, the car starts, then, after one second it stops, and then it starts again and stays on. When I place my key in the ingintion to the "ON" posittion (note I do not turn all the way to "start") the car continues to run for about 3 seconds but afterwards it starts to grind. If i press the brake durring this 3 seconds, the grinding does not occur and the car stays on.
5. When remote started the car sounds like its really out of tune. If I place my key in the "on" postition and press the brake, the car goes back to normal and sounds like it does when I start it with a key.
I am afraid that I connected something wrong but I checked and everything seems correct. The car has 2 accesory wires and one igintion wire. The alarm has one accesory, one ignition, and one wire that can be "jumped" between acc and ign. I changed the jumper to acc so that should not be the problem. I connected to the started wire, right before it plugs into the key cylinder on the steering wheel column.
In any case, thanks for trying to help. If I cannot figure it out, I will call Crimestopper tomorow and hopefully they can help me.
Any suggestions are welcome...
TownAndcountry 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: July 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 18, 2004 at 8:36 PM / IP Logged  

Well there may be something wrong with the crimestopper afterall. The element has pretty standard honda wiring aside from the transponder. Are you using a bypass that requires a key? Or is it a learning bypass that yo tap into the keysense and data wires? This may seem like a stupid question, but are you sure that your wiring from the relay pack going to the ignition wiring is 100% I've seem some people hook up acc. or ignition to the starter wire and they had similar results. Could also be a defect. Go over every wire. Crimestopper tach learning isn't exactly user friendly, but the directions are there, just take your time.

T&C

vl4d 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: July 18, 2004
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: July 18, 2004 at 8:59 PM / IP Logged  
The bypass is keyless and uses the data wire as mentioned above. The bypass is not the problem. I installed the bypass before I started installing the alarm and it worked fine. Even now the bypass is doing its job; otherwise the car would not start.
Thanks for your input, I'll check all the inginion harness wires again. I might also switch out the brain unit of the alarm as I have two of them (the other is for my wife's car). If nothing works I'll see what CS tech support has to say tomorow.
swamprat323 
Gold - Posts: 1,335
Gold spacespace
Joined: September 22, 2002
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: July 19, 2004 at 12:33 AM / IP Logged  
If your tach is reading that high of volts, that not your tach wire, and if it does not move if u push the gas and it dont chang ethe volts, yes it not the tach wire.
I check on another wire guide.
Blue a 2 pin conector rear of engine comparment.

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