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Problems with JL 1000/1 and 2 10w6v2's


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reeboot 
Member - Posts: 5
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Joined: July 20, 2004
Posted: July 20, 2004 at 12:39 PM / IP Logged  
I'm running 2 JL 10w6v2's into a JL 1000/1. I had the box made at a shop and it seems as tho they wired the DVC of each sub in parellel to give them each a 2ohm load. Why they did this, I don't know! But I thought it would be correct.
Now when I hook them up to the 1000/1, it parallel's them again into a 1ohm load. Now the amp is rated 1.5-4ohms so this isn't the proper setup correct?
I'm having trouble with Bass Output in this configuration. When I turn up the volume to a moderate level, the subs sound like they are hitting plastic or are at max excurstion or something. sounds like they want to POP...I dunno...But when I disconnect 1 sub, and just run 1 sub on the 1000/1, its LOUDER, has alot more BASS OUTPUT and just sounds better than running both of them at the same time!
Any ideas why this is? Am I correct and the Subs need to be wired differently to product a 4ohm load? I can wire the DVC subs in Series producing an 8ohm load per sub, so then when connected to the 1000/1 it would be 4ohms.
Any help would be great!
THanks,
Ryan
stevdart 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 20, 2004 at 4:19 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah, they look to be dual 4 ohm subs, according to the JL site.  Each parallel is 2 ohms, paralleled to the amp is 1 ohm.  Nice amp.  The problem sounds more like phasing, though, with one sub doing the opposite of the other.  Check the wiring on the subs'  voice coils.  You should be getting some very loud sound, with either a 1 ohm load on the amp,(which I wouldn't push for), or a 4 ohm load.  http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Alpine Guy 
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Posted: July 20, 2004 at 9:03 PM / IP Logged  
is the box single chambered or dual??   if is all 1 chamber, , and the subs are out of phase, , then that would definataly be why the subs are popping.....cuz there shure would be maxxing out.
2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.
reeboot 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: July 20, 2004
Posted: July 20, 2004 at 11:15 PM / IP Logged  
I check the wiring on the subs and to the amps. I'm pretty sure I wired it correctly but I know the final Ohm load is 1 ohms cause the subs DVC are parallel. On the 1000/1 the 2 left speaker inputs are + and the 2 right are -. So I'm hooking up 1 sub to the 1st + and 1st - and the 2nd to the 2nd + and 2nd -. Is that correct?
Anyway...It's a 1 chamber box. Its a mdf box with a plexi back so u can see the sub magnets. I'll just try and switch the + and - and see what happens.
chuckt504 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: July 23, 2004
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 23, 2004 at 10:27 AM / IP Logged  
Go to the 8 olm load and chamber the box I have the exact same set up, except for 12's.   I have talked to jl direct about the this set because i had problems also.
customsuburb 
Gold - Posts: 1,813
Gold spacespace
Joined: January 17, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 23, 2004 at 10:46 AM / IP Logged  
Defnitely wire those subs for 4 ohms, you will get the same RMS output from 1.5 to 4 ohms on that amp so you won't have to worry about your amp overheating. Also like said above make that box into a dual chamber one instead of a single chamber.
reeboot 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: July 20, 2004
Posted: July 23, 2004 at 10:52 AM / IP Logged  
I'll def. wire for 4ohms. Problem with the dual chamber option is that I got this box totally custom made for my 2001 Prelude, which I now have a 2004 civic. It has a plexi window that shows through the rear seats and its all aluminum laminate inside with neon, so I don't think doing the dual chamber is an option.
Now if its the box that is the problem after I wire it correctly, do u think the shop would build me a new box?
dcgc 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: July 23, 2004 at 7:35 PM / IP Logged  
Same thing happened to me and my two JL 12w6v2's, only with a 500/1. The ohm load was too low, I also had mine wired for a 1 ohm load. I followed the advice from "forbidden", wired them in a 4 ohm load, haven't had a problem since.
customsuburb 
Gold - Posts: 1,813
Gold spacespace
Joined: January 17, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 23, 2004 at 7:52 PM / IP Logged  

Straight from JL's website, on the 1000/1:

Rated Power:

1000 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm  
(11V-14.5V)

that = same amount of power from 1.5 to 4 ohms. Why don't people just wire their subs for 4 ohms in the first place? Problems with JL 1000/1 and 2 10w6v2's -- posted image.

reeboot 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: July 20, 2004
Posted: July 23, 2004 at 8:02 PM / IP Logged  
customsuburb,
I had the custom made and the audio shop put the subs in the box and mount it into my car, they knew I was going to power it with a 1000/1. I figured they'd wire it correctly u know? - but I guess that's not the case, I"m going to get it right tommorrow.
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