94 Explorer Power Locks

We have repaired a 94 Explorer Eddie Bauer with keyless (keypad) entry and and have replaced the right side doors with some from a non-keyless model.  The lock motors and relays chatter whenever the right front door lock switch is plugged in.  Seems like one is positive and the other negative pulse. 

Does anyone have a schematic for the right front door with and without keyless? The keyless car also has central locking with the requisite switch and wiring on the back of the lock cylinder.

The obvious question is "Why didn't we install the harness from the original door in the new door?" and the sad but true answer is that the garbage has already been picked up.

By the way, refer to doorlocks type C schematics using two relays. Your complication might be reverse polarity.

Thanks for your posts.

Final resolution of problem - The keyless entry system takes care of many functions on this vehicle including power locks, anti-theft, etc.  It comes with the Limited model, or anything with the electronic convenience group. 

In the base system, the driver's side lock motor outputs flow to the passenger side switch and are either fed through it or changed by the passenger.  Outputs from the passenger side flow back to the motors in all doors.  It's a five wire system.

In the keyless system, the switch outputs are not reversible voltage feeds to the motor but rather ground pulses to the keyless module for lock and unlock.  The keyless module generates the motor voltage and sends it to all doors. It's a three wire system

The conversion was simple once a factory schematic was obtained:  We had to move two wires in the connector and add a ground connection, leaving the motor feed-back and 12v source wires unattached.  The only other difference in the harness is that the anti-theft disarm switch on the lock cylinder is not there.  The switch is a normally-open SPST, and all cylinders are wired in parallel, so there was no problem just leaving the switch out.  The switch is only used to disarm a triggered system, and leaves the wireless remote and two other lock cylinders to do the job.

It was tempting to source the ground required for the lock switch from one of the two disconnected motor leads, since they are both at ground when the locks are not being actuated.  It was an easy shift in the connector and worked fine that way, but I realized later that lock actuation was sending a short 12v pulse to the keyless module.  It seemed possible that the pulse might eventually damage the module, so we went back in and moved our ground source to the lighting circuit just a little way down the harness.

It's seems like you have found your problem. Good Luck....