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enclosure design in a limited space


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DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: August 15, 2004 at 10:19 AM / IP Logged  
Yes, the configuration you describe can in effect lengthen the port and change your tuning frequency.  It will also likely create a "howling" or "tin-can" sound at whatever new (too high) tuning frequency the oversize "port" has created.  I suggest rotating your enclosure so your port does not face downwards... I assume it was not designed to face down?
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beady 
Copper - Posts: 65
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Joined: August 08, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 15, 2004 at 8:33 PM / IP Logged  

DYohn wrote:
Yes, the configuration you describe can in effect lengthen the port and change your tuning frequency.  It will also likely create a "howling" or "tin-can" sound at whatever new (too high) tuning frequency the oversize "port" has created.  I suggest rotating your enclosure so your port does not face downwards... I assume it was not designed to face down?

Dyohn, I don't want the sub to show, or the port either if possible.  I ran a calculation (if the sub can withstand the sag etc.) that showed the sub will be OK firing downward.

I am going to build at least one sub enclosure in a corner location, maybe both corners, haven't decided that yet.  First pic is the location in the back of my car (300ZX):

enclosure design in a limited space - Page 2 -- posted image.

Here is a very rough sketch of what I am envisioning, and not to scale.  The port will be a slot port, but that would have been messy to draw freehand and would just have confused ppl looking at the drawing.  The point is, I have the sub and port firing downward and all the sound energy emenating from the slot:

 enclosure design in a limited space - Page 2 -- posted image.

I suppose I could have the driver firing down into the slotted area and the port firing across the hatch, would that be preferrable?

How tall should the slot be?  I'd like to use the minimum height I can, I'm using a single 10 in each enclosure.

Thanks for any input,

Mike

beady 
Copper - Posts: 65
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Joined: August 08, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 15, 2004 at 9:00 PM / IP Logged  

I'm trying to figure out a ported enclosure that will work for me. 

Below is a revised drawing.  If the baffle height is the same as the port height, and the widths are the same, can I calculate total port length as X + Y + Z or can I not have the sub firing into the port path? 

enclosure design in a limited space - Page 2 -- posted image.

Other wise I would make the height of the baffle different than the port height, and/or a different width.  Then I guess the total port length would be just Y + Z (plus end correction per JL Audio site), correct?

How much difference in height/width does my slot-loaded outlet need to be from my port dimensions?

I've done my research, but can't find this sort of information.  I need help, please.

Mike

beady 
Copper - Posts: 65
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Joined: August 08, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 16, 2004 at 5:34 PM / IP Logged  

I am trying to figure out what subwoofer/port arrangement I want to build my enclosure with. To begin with I'll show the are that I want to use in my car (300ZX):

enclosure design in a limited space - Page 2 -- posted image.

Below is my first concept. It is very rough and not to scale. I was considering firing the driver and the port into a slot loaded area. I can't find any information on whether I can fire the port into this area aslo, so I may have to forgo this concept.

enclosure design in a limited space - Page 2 -- posted image.

Below is my next concept. It is very rough and not to scale either. The key concept I am trying to convey here is that the driver is firing into a slot loaded area that empties into the cabin, and the port fires into the corner of the hatch, in the gap formed by the contour of the hatch area and the sub enclosure. The area the port fires into will psuedo-slot load it I *think*.

enclosure design in a limited space - Page 2 -- posted image.

My next idea is a combination of the two sketches. Imagine the second sketch, but with the driver outlet rotated 180 degrees and firing into the same corner gap that the port does.

Last concept is to have the driver slot loaded outlet fire into the corner as described immediately above, but have the port fire out into the cabin 180 degrees from the position it is drawn in.

I don't have any experience with these configurations, and I'll appreciate some feedback. I'm asking which configuration would be the most efficient and help me get the best low bass extension.

I have to be able to stow my T-tops still, so I don't have the luxury of of just building a big roughly square box and move it around. The enclosure has to be built into the corner as much as I can to save space, so I need to get a good idea of what I am going to do before I get down to really expending effort calcuating all my dimensions for all the wood and bracing I will need.

Thanks,

Mike

Ravendarat 
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Joined: February 23, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: August 16, 2004 at 6:09 PM / IP Logged  
The first scetch will work fine. The only complication could be the tunning frequency of the port could be changed slightly due to it being so close to the ground. I did run a box in a vary similar design for like 2 years and had no problems, in fact it was actually my favorite box I have ever used. You should keep the driver and the port on the same face so the third Idea is also a good one.
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beady 
Copper - Posts: 65
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 16, 2004 at 6:20 PM / IP Logged  

Ravendarat wrote:
The first scetch will work fine. The only complication could be the tunning frequency of the port could be changed slightly due to it being so close to the ground. I did run a box in a vary similar design for like 2 years and had no problems, in fact it was actually my favorite box I have ever used. You should keep the driver and the port on the same face so the third Idea is also a good one.

Do you think the corner loaded appraoch would be more efficient?  Or am I just asking for rattles by firing into a plastic lined corner?

Also, is there a formula ot rule of thumb to guestimate the height of the slot?  I think I read somewhere to use 75% + of the driver area, but I'm not sure of that, or why that was the chosen number.  Also, I think I'll radius the mouth of the slot where it opens into the car.

Thanks,

Mike

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