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hooking up an amp


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gregcarter 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: August 13, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 14, 2004 at 4:41 PM / IP Logged  
Im putting a amp to a factory stereo in a 1996 exploror.  I have a low output converter but i cant figure out the wires coming from the raido  please help 
94legend 
Silver - Posts: 237
Silver spacespace
Joined: June 27, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 14, 2004 at 5:34 PM / IP Logged  

What you may want to do is use your rear speaker wires from the deck, if you can remove your standard factory deck, locate the rear speakers (if any), and subsitute it with your converter, which should have the rca out put, then to the amp, if you need exact colors and wires of the (L) (R) wires, there should be section which you can go here in this forum, i believe its under "General" then "Vehicle Information"

switch_hitter 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 03, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 14, 2004 at 5:53 PM / IP Logged  

I have a 96 Ford explorer also..only issue is you have a factory amp...you need to find the wires behind your radio that carry the signal to your factory amp, and then tap into them and run them to the line out converter.

gregcarter 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: August 13, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 14, 2004 at 6:27 PM / IP Logged  

thanks for the help but the color code on this site dose not match my raido harness

stevdart 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 14, 2004 at 7:18 PM / IP Logged  

Tap into the wires at actual speaker locations.  You don't have to know wire colors.  All you need is input from pos and neg on a left speaker and a right speaker.  It is often easier to get to the speaker locations than pulling out the factory head unit.  Choose the two speakers (left and right) that are easiest to get to.  You can use regular 16 gauge speaker wire to run the signal to the converter.  Pull the speaker wire apart at the middle so that you have two separate strands.

After you tap into those wires (solder and tape after testing everything), you will want to twist the pos/neg wires around each other the full length of the run to the LOC, which should be located close to the amp.  The twisting negates interference that may be picked up by the wires.  (If you look at RCA cable made for car audio, the wires are twisted.)  Twist your input wires at about one to two twists per inch.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
customsuburb 
Gold - Posts: 1,813
Gold spacespace
Joined: January 17, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 14, 2004 at 10:14 PM / IP Logged  
stevdart wrote:

Tap into the wires at actual speaker locations.  You don't have to know wire colors.  All you need is input from pos and neg on a left speaker and a right speaker.  It is often easier to get to the speaker locations than pulling out the factory head unit.  Choose the two speakers (left and right) that are easiest to get to.  You can use regular 16 gauge speaker wire to run the signal to the converter.  Pull the speaker wire apart at the middle so that you have two separate strands.

After you tap into those wires (solder and tape after testing everything), you will want to twist the pos/neg wires around each other the full length of the run to the LOC, which should be located close to the amp.  The twisting negates interference that may be picked up by the wires.  (If you look at RCA cable made for car audio, the wires are twisted.)  Twist your input wires at about one to two twists per inch.

In my opinion its the other way around; its alot easier to tap the wires at the deck then ripping off the door panels, then running wires to the LOC through the rubber boot in the door and then back to the LOC. And why twist your wire, when you can buy some twisted wire that is the same thing, instead of twisting wire for an hour. Twisted wire


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