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Alternator near death?


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axonal 
Member - Posts: 45
Member spacespace
Joined: May 30, 2004
Posted: August 19, 2004 at 3:24 AM / IP Logged  
I already have a pretty strong alternator already in my 99 Tahoe, but I recently decided to bridge one of my amps to give some more power to my subs, and now the draw from the amp is much stronger than before. I had a capacitor in there before, but will most likely put another back in. Either way, my current situation is as follows. When revving up the engine, my car stays at a steady 12 volts, but when idling, the voltometer will show a decrease near the 9volt range (yet all my equipment is still operating fine minus the headlights). Will a capacitor really solve this problem, or should I be looking into an even higher output alternator. I've seen some pretty cheap capacitors lately ($38 for 1 farad), but i do plan on getting another 1000W amp to power another two subs, so would my money be better put in the higher output alternator, or two 1 farad caps for $38. Also, any suggestions for higher output alternators for a '98 tahoe? I'm already running the highest GM alternator (160 I believe).
flynntech 
Copper - Posts: 275
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 19, 2004 at 6:28 AM / IP Logged  

first check all of your connections.

I recently fixed my body ground and battery posts on my car, no system, but I still noticed an improvement.

All I did was undo the connections, I wire brushed inside the threads, bolt, ring terminals and the top-post clamps and posts.  I didn't scuff the paint around the body ground point because I live in NH and the road salt is harsh in the winter, it grounds fine through the threads.

I just bought some di-elecetric grease, it was $7 at autozone, kind of pricey for my taste, but it comes in a nifty can with some spout thing on it. The purpose here is to maintain a good connection, keeping air/moisture/corrosion away from the bare metal contacts.  It looks like vasaline, but it's much better for electrical connections than vasaline, di-electric grease is the right stuff to use.

Upgrade those crappy wires if you haven't already, those are just as important to the amplifier power as the cables you already have connecting to the amp. I recently saw a show vehicle with regular 4 awg connecting the batt-engine-body, that would work just as good as any automotive wire, the only thing I would do is cover it with wire loom and tape up the connectors.

I don't know how much you are already running, but an additional 1000 watts is asking alot. Forget the cap for now, you definitly need and alternator with more amps output than what you have now, a cap won't make any difference if your power source isn't up to the task. Replace your battery if it is old, forget the sears special, go straight to something nice like an Optima or similar type.

axonal 
Member - Posts: 45
Member spacespace
Joined: May 30, 2004
Posted: August 19, 2004 at 2:08 PM / IP Logged  
flynn, I have 1 gauge copper running from the battery for both 12 and ground, straight to my amp setup. Currently I'm running a 120W Lightning Audio Bolt amp (soon to be replaced with a JBL) and a 1000W Kenwood KAC-929 amp for my subs (which I plan to get another for my other 2 subs). The 1000W is the PEAK power it provides, the RMS is around 460W I believe. Either way, my power connection is good since I get the same voltage at the battery that I do at my amps (checked with multimeter). I looked for a higher output alternator for my Tahoe, but most of the alternators seemed to max out at the 160 range (which is what I have already). The voltometer does seems to go down though only during bass hits. It stays at a steady 12 volts when I turn the bass completely off. So would a capacitor then be good when it is only during bass hits that it affects the system?
promodeepcycle 
Copper - Posts: 152
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 17, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 19, 2004 at 2:15 PM / IP Logged  
honestly your not even phasing your alt.  your pulling prob. 35-40 amp .... i hope your not running a ground that is going to your fact. batt.? your ground needs to be 1-2 feet long and 1 awg copper  ....... and i would hope thats not "house" wiring... reg. multi-strand oil resistant flexible wire hell 4 gauge should be enough
dont be a pet monkey ..use your dmm
flynntech 
Copper - Posts: 275
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 19, 2004 at 5:37 PM / IP Logged  

wow promo.....your sig really sums it up!  (not for this thread, just in general)

 1 awg has nothing to do with the poor connection between your engine and the body and....running a ground all the way to your battery? That can't be good.....

Please, read up and wire your system properly, you will be glad you did!  

If you shop around, you can get decent deals on soft strand cable. I've seen 1/0 for $2.29 per foot.  It's much easier to work with.   

customsuburb 
Gold - Posts: 1,813
Gold spacespace
Joined: January 17, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 19, 2004 at 9:58 PM / IP Logged  
In some GM vehicles it is neccesary to run a ground directly from the battery to the amp, because the chassis sn't that great so you would get a lower resistance running a ground directly to the battery. You need a new alternator, My suburban's voltage meter reads 14.4 with nothing running (its a 98).
flynntech 
Copper - Posts: 275
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2004 at 8:19 AM / IP Logged  

True, if the resistance is actually lower through a wire, then it will work just as good and it won't let in noise.

Think about it....at car shows, people with high power systems bring 12v into the car via a thick cable pair and usually attach it to a heavy duty plug at the battery. The same plugs that forklift battery chargers use. This never seems to cause any problems.

axonal, I still think you have a weak point between your alternator + terminal and batt + terminal, engine-body-battery - terminal. 

Alpine Guy 
Platinum - Posts: 2,478
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 18, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: August 21, 2004 at 1:04 PM / IP Logged  
Definately clean your battery posts, and the ground wire at your frame, ,and ground wire at the alt, , plus clean the positve wire at the alt.   Use sum dielectric grease, , , if your problem still persists, , get a load test done, , then if its dead, , a new 160 amo alt should definately be enough for your system.
2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.
axonal 
Member - Posts: 45
Member spacespace
Joined: May 30, 2004
Posted: August 22, 2004 at 3:16 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks Alpine guy, I think its most likely a problem regarding the battery posts and the terminal clip Im using. I tightened the connector pretty much til I couldnt tighten it by hand anymore, and things improved, but I still get a minor flicker, so I'm going to try cleaning the terminal posts some more and hopefully it will work. As for all the people wondering if I wired ground all the way to the battery, I did not. The 12volt is coming straight from the battery, and its grounded at the frame. Like I stated earlier, the cabling seems to be fine since I get the same voltage that I get from the battery at the ends of the cables.

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