straight forward switch question

Is this lighted switch wired correctly? It was working fine when i originally had just 2 neons  wired like this. Then i added 2 small leds for the air vents. Now the led's will fade out and /or shut off at random.

This Is Fused but i am not using a relay. If this has been answered a million times just point me to the right post

2000 Honda Civic 4DR

Alpine 7892 HU

PPI A404.4 [HP] w/.5F Cap.

PPI A600.2 [LP] w/1F Cap.

Infinity Kappa 3-way 6.5"

Infinity Kappa 6x9

Infinity Kappa 4OHM DVC

VT Slot Port Box

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Did I bother saying hi or thanks or anything? How rude ----Sorry2000 Honda Civic 4DR

Alpine 7892 HU

PPI A404.4 [HP] w/.5F Cap.

PPI A600.2 [LP] w/1F Cap.

Infinity Kappa 3-way 6.5"

Infinity Kappa 6x9

Infinity Kappa 4OHM DVC

VT Slot Port Box

Dynamat rules

Unless the LED's are rated for 12 VDC. You will require a resistor(s) for them. Regards EVIL Teken . . .

The ones I bought are the little self stick ones that come in a little caspsule (which has a resistor) That you can get at any Pep Boys. I would safely assume they are rated for 12VDC.  Maybe another resistor in line? Or are they just just crappy lights?My main concern was really not with the LEDS. I was worried that the switch was wired wrong. Is it better to ground all the lights directly to the chassis, or run them to the ground on the switch? (as i did) I've been reading a lot about melted switches and did not want this to happen, however, the switch (which is lighted) gets pretty hot. Is this normal heat from the light?thanks Teken--------------------------------------------------------------RYAN-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2000 Honda Civic 4DR

Alpine 7892 HU

PPI A404.4 [HP] w/.5F Cap.

PPI A600.2 [LP] w/1F Cap.

Infinity Kappa 3-way 6.5"

Infinity Kappa 6x9

Infinity Kappa 4OHM DVC

VT Slot Port Box

Dynamat rules

One of the things you need to take into consideration is that each switch has a specified current rating. Assuming the switch is rated for 5 amps, you are good to go. LED's do not consume very much current while on, and much less while blinking. Normally you would ground each device (LED) to its own ground plane / point. The reason being is that if say the switch was not able to handle the extra current draw, then that would increase the *load* on the switch itself, and thus also affect the insulators / contacts of the switch. Normally lighted switch's do feel warm to the touch if they are very small incandecent bulbs within. If the switch is using a LED inside, the cover is barely more than a few degree's above the room temperature of the cabin, and run cool, but are still warm. I would definately varify the packaging material that came with the LED's. If they say they are rated for 12 VDC, than you are indeed good to go. If they are not, then simply install a resistor from any value from 330 ohms to 550. Normally, you would add in the correct value based on the specifications of the LED, but in a pinch, any value from 330, 470, to 550 is fine. The only draw back to *Ghetto* guessing is that the LED will never provide the most light output it can, and possibly not give you the same service life you expect. A standard LED, properly installed with a resistor will perform for more than 5-10 years, depending upon the quality of workmanship, and materials used. Regards EVIL Teken . . .

Thanks a ton. I'm going to check the package and re-ground the lights for starters. Then i'll delve into adding a resistor. Appreciate the info--- --------------------------------------------------------------RYAN-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------2000 Honda Civic 4DR

Alpine 7892 HU

PPI A404.4 [HP] w/.5F Cap.

PPI A600.2 [LP] w/1F Cap.

Infinity Kappa 3-way 6.5"

Infinity Kappa 6x9

Infinity Kappa 4OHM DVC

VT Slot Port Box

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Just to follow up with you. If you are using female plug in connectors to attach it to the switch, please ensure that you crimp the connector down a little. Often times the connections to the spade (male) end does not make a firm and tight seal. Simply take a pair of pliers and crimp the female plug. The surest and most stable method is to solder the wire(s) to the switch. That will remove any doubt about a loose, or poor contact being the culprit. Lastly, what is the current draw of the two neons, and for the switch itself? Regards EVIL Teken . . .

Good call on the solder,  As soon as i get a free night i'm going to do just that.

As for the neons I'll have to check. They are 2- 9" "OPTIX"  tubes if you might have seen them. Available at Pep Boys. I will check at work for those specs. The LEDs ARE rated for 12VDC, I found out today. They also draw 40 ma.

As for the switch, I used one I had from a set of fog lights i use to own. So I would think It would be OK for up to 10a? Or not? At Least 5a. I have to pop the panel out to see the back of it--Hopefully tomorrow.I also just picked up a fosgate .5 farad cap for my highs. They also came with GP Fosgate cap terminals. A gret deal at $25. I love working at a pawn exchange. Actually, I'm really lucky that i work for part of this place which sells and can get all sorts of mobile electronics & access. We have an E-bay store but have to find out about private auctions if anyones interested in any equipment. We have pretty much seen everything from soundstorm to macintosh at one time or another. Anyway-----Thanks for checking up. L8ER-----------------------------------------------------------------RYAN---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

2000 Honda Civic 4DR

Alpine 7892 HU

PPI A404.4 [HP] w/.5F Cap.

PPI A600.2 [LP] w/1F Cap.

Infinity Kappa 3-way 6.5"

Infinity Kappa 6x9

Infinity Kappa 4OHM DVC

VT Slot Port Box

Dynamat rules