installing backup siren

The reason I am asking is that some of the models come with a 4 wire hook up and the others come with a 5 wire harness. The standard CS211 is a 5 wire harness. The colors and use are as follow's. 1. RED = (+) 12 VDC constant 2. BLK = (-) Chassis ground 3. WHT = (+) Positive trigger 4. BRN = (-) Negative trigger 5. ORG = (+) Battery charge, with ignition on Other models such as the DEI 515R have only a 4 wire harness. 1. RED = 12 VDC constant 2. BLK = Chassis ground 3. VIO = (+) Positive siren input 4. GRN = (-) Negative siren input I would just like to clarify the operation of the battery back up siren for you. When you arm your alarm you will hear a chirp, when you disarm, you will also hear a chirp from the siren(s). When the alarm sounds, both sirens should come on. When you disarm the alarm, both should turn off. The back up siren should idealy function on its own, when power is removed, assuming the key is turned in the armed state. If the key is left in the off state, it will only operate as a normal siren without battery back up. I would ask you to the do the following things first to varify the operation of the siren. With the back up siren disconnected from any source when you turn the key to armed, it should sound on its own, assuming it is properly charged. If it does not, no matter the position of the override key. Then either the battery is too low, dead, or the sirens electronics are faulty. If it operates normally as stated above, your next step is to ensure that you wire the siren correctly as outlined above. Remember, the siren only uses a positive or negative input trigger from your alarm. Do not wire all four wires. In your example there would only be 3 wires in total connected. That being +12 positive from the battery, (-) chassis ground, and a (+) trigger from the alarms brown siren output. Again, the back-up siren should always turn on and off with the alarm system upon arming and disarming. The only time the siren will not turn off is (IF) the main power source is disconnected, or a low power condition is seen. Regards EVIL Teken . . .

The wire coming off of the APS-400 for the siren is a white with black trace on it. The siren is in fact a positive pulse from the alarm system. Take what ever color wire from the back-up siren that is the *positive (+)* activating lead, and connect it to the APS's white with black strip. You should be good to go from there. If you need more help, please ask. P.S. Please confirm the wire colors from the BB siren for us all, as I have read over this thread several times, and it was never stated as a fact, as to what it is. Regards EVIL Teken . . .

To do it safely, so as it will perform consistently and reliably. You will add a standard SPDT relay of your choice. Everyone uses a 30 amp relay in the field, I prefer to use a 40 amp relay. The only reason is that it allows the user / owner to have that extra margin of safety in terms of current capacity, if they so desired to add in a siren, horn, or mechanical raid style horn, which draw alot of current in cold weather. The choice is up to you on that aspect. You will add the relay of your choice as follows. 87 - Constant +12 VDC 86 - Chassis ground 85 - From alarms siren output trigger 30 - Connects to all the siren(s) you wish, within the current limit of the relay. ie 30-40 amp max. I would also ask you to ensure all the siren(s), are fused seperately, along with the application of SS self tapping screws, with a star washer, and dielectric grease compound. Regards EVIL Teken . . .