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fiberglassing a trunk lid


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Patpjrick 
Member - Posts: 40
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Joined: February 06, 2004
Location: North Carolina, United States
Posted: September 07, 2004 at 12:30 AM / IP Logged  

ive seen plenty people fiberglassing trunk lids, but my question is how are they mounted and not crack from taking a beating when the trunk lid gets slammed shut. i know FG is pretty strong as i have made a small sub enclosure in the corner of my trunk and i know it can withstand the beating of the bass, but wit the fiberglass hanging from the trunk when its closed and gettin slammed shut would that have anything to do with it having the possibility of cracking off the trunk lid and laying on the trunk floor? but most importantly how would you mount it to the trunk lid? ive seen most of them with out looking like they are screwed into the lid. i would like to make one that i can mold to the trun klid and then take it off to paint, then mount it, but i really dont want to leave and holes in the enclosure if i have to screw it in and most trunk lids that ive seen fiberglassed dont have any holes

ok im done rambling on now. hopefully someone can make sense of my post and reply to it fiberglassing a trunk lid -- posted image.

CarAudioHelp 
Copper - Posts: 198
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Posted: September 07, 2004 at 9:17 AM / IP Logged  
Screw points are built into the removable lid using wood. Then pieces of wood are bonded to the trunk lid (not screwed for obvious reasons). The bonded wood and the screw points in the cover piece are screwed together. You'll notice most of the trunk lids have speaker pods and/or monitors in them. This is how they access the screws so there aren't any attachment points showing.
Patpjrick 
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Posted: September 07, 2004 at 9:57 PM / IP Logged  
ahhhhhhhh i see.....that would make sense then. man i wish i thought about that. <smacks self in head> i was planing on just adding a design on the trunk instead of speakers, but that would have been in the center of the trunk and im thinkin the mounting points in just the center wouldnt be strong enough so it looks like i will have to change my idea.....would mounting a mono channel amp and 2 8 inch subs be too heavy for the trunk? by too heavy i mean would the trunk lid just fall down due to being too heavy each time i had it opened
Alpine Guy 
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Posted: September 07, 2004 at 10:06 PM / IP Logged  

depends on how far the trunk swings back past the center of gravity, like, if you lift it, you will get to a point where the lid is basically straight up and down where it can kinda stand there on its own...if you can open the lid more where gravity opens it more, then your set.

Iv never been good at explinations

2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.
Patpjrick 
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Posted: September 07, 2004 at 10:20 PM / IP Logged  
i understand what you are trying to explain....worse case scenario i just get a tire iron and prop the trunk up that way.....ghetto rigged fiberglassing a trunk lid -- posted image.
Alpine Guy 
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Posted: September 07, 2004 at 10:24 PM / IP Logged  

At my shop we did that for our geo storm, , the gas lift supports couldn't hold our cheep wing, , i think that monster was made of steel haha.    We used a child pool stick haha, , , just put sum pool balls in the trunk and people think its a theam.

2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.
CarAudioHelp 
Copper - Posts: 198
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Posted: September 08, 2004 at 10:34 AM / IP Logged  
Too heavy? Maybe. It depends on a lot of factors. But I think the bigger problem would be the inverted amplifier. All of the heat would stay trapped in the amp (if you ran it while driving or with the lid down). If you're running decent power to the subs then you're going to have to really beef up the cover and make it air tight. Plus you have to run larger power and ground wires for the amp, RCA cables, remote, etc. You could do it but it may be more trouble then you want for yourself. Especially on your first trunk lid.
I like the theme to cover up the pool stick prop.
skunk0526 
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Posted: September 10, 2004 at 2:11 AM / IP Logged  

Hey CarAudioHelp,

   Would you mind drawing a picture of some kind to show me what you mean by screw points. Ive been wondering about seamless mounting for some time, but don't quite see what you mean here.

Speak slow to the slow kid

Thanks,  if you have a a sec i'd appreciate it.

   Ryan

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ravenndude 
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Posted: September 10, 2004 at 1:34 PM / IP Logged  

CarAudioHelp wrote:
Then pieces of wood are bonded to the trunk lid (not screwed for obvious reasons).

What kind of epoxy would you use to bind wood to metal? I won't mind putting some 6.5s in the trunk jsut to have some mids and highs durring tail gates and such.

customscene 
Member - Posts: 5
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Joined: September 30, 2004
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Posted: September 30, 2004 at 5:08 AM / IP Logged  

PATPJRICK wrote:
i was planing on just adding a design on the trunk instead of speakers

Here's two ways I could see you making it work:

1) since it's just a fiberglass piece to look good (ie. not too heavy): Find some places in the inside layer of the metal (re-enforcement part) to drill small holes, and glass in some of those plastic things used to hold interior panels in place. This would be nice, because you can easily take it off should you ever need to.

2) make your trunk lid in more than one piece: The fiberglass design piece, with holes around the perimeter to screw it in, and one or more trim pieces that can snap in as described above. The trim pieces would be small (and lightweight) and will cover the holes. HINT, HINT: cover them in carpet or vinyl to match whatever's in your trunk!

that would add a nice touch, tie your trunk together, and no worries about scratching/chipping the edges of the fiberglass piece!!!

If you're gonna put something heavy in it, an idea:

the wood block idea sounds good - or you can wrap the wood block with foil, lay glass over the sides - and make fiberglass struts. Eliminate bonding separate materials. (keep in mind, you'll want these to be heavy duty though, so make them thick)

 

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