Remote Start Woes

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Teken

Gold - Posts: 1,492

Joined: August 04, 2002

Location: Aruba

Posted: September 24, 2004 at 5:22 PM / IP Logged

The AC voltage should fluctuate with RPM movement of the gas pedal.

Please do not take me literally, about obtaining a constent AC source.

Your goal, and the RS goal is to obtain a flutuating AC signal which in turns informs the RS it is running alright.

Please varify the tach source, and see if it does rise and fall upon gas pedal application.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

mrbean01

Member - Posts: 28

Joined: July 30, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: September 24, 2004 at 5:33 PM / IP Logged

Oh, when I said it's a consistant 3.75, I just meant that for initial idle. It definitely responds to gas pedal application as the tach wire should.

Teken

Gold - Posts: 1,492

Joined: August 04, 2002

Location: Aruba

Posted: September 24, 2004 at 5:47 PM / IP Logged

Nissan

240SX

1989-1990

Remote Starter Wiring Colors and Notes

Function

Vehicle Color

Location

Start:

BLACK/ WHITE

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **

Ignition #1:

BLACK/ RED

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition #2:

N/A

Ignition #3:

N/A

Accessory:

BLUE

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Brake Light:

RED / GREEN (+)

(+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL

Tach Signal:
YELLOW/RED
AT DROPPING RESISTOR *

Parking Lights:

RED / BLUE

(+) AT LIGHT SWITCH

Headlights:

NOT RECOMMENDED -

POP-UP MOTORS SEPARATE CIRCUIT

OEM Alarm Disarm:

N/A

OEM Alarm Arm:

N/A

Diesel Glow Plug:

Clutch Bypass Wire:

Notes:
* Dropping Resistor Located On Driver Front Of Engine Compartment. 2 Wires- High Side From Coil/Power Transistor: LT. GREEN/ BLACK. Low Side To Tachometer And Engine Control Module: YELLOW/RED. ** This Vehicle Is Equipped With Two Start Wires. Both Must Be Powered In Order For Vehicle To Start When Engine Is Cold; See Note #235 - Nissan Starter Wires Diagram

I want you to locate this dropping resistor and wire the tach wire from the RS to this point.

The basics are not being applied here, and it will only fustrate you more, if we dont follow some sort of format.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

Teken

Gold - Posts: 1,492

Joined: August 04, 2002

Location: Aruba

Posted: September 24, 2004 at 5:51 PM / IP Logged

12volts white + ignition harness

Starter BLACK/ white + ignition harness

Second Starter BLACK / YELLOW + ignition harness

Ignition BLACK/ red + ignition harness

Second

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

Teken

Gold - Posts: 1,492

Joined: August 04, 2002

Location: Aruba

Posted: September 25, 2004 at 11:31 PM / IP Logged

Also, you might want to turn *ON* the tach threshold. This may also help you out in this situation.

Just another thing to consider for your current problem.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

RufNUSD

Copper - Posts: 184

Joined: December 10, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: September 25, 2004 at 11:56 PM / IP Logged

This dude answered his question from his first post. He asked about hooking up the second power on the relay pack. It is 100% necc. to do this as one red wire feeds half the relays and the other red wire feeds the remaining. These wires arent there to just double the amperage going into the relays.

If thats not the problem any basic troubleshooting skills would solve this. Are you testing the voltage on all your ignition and starter wires when you apply the remote start process? It doesnt sound like it. It either that or the clutch interface you rigged up.

Someone pass me that bottle.

mrbean01

Member - Posts: 28

Joined: July 30, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: September 26, 2004 at 2:11 AM / IP Logged

To answer:

Ruf: You're refering to the RED / white wire that I have to cut, right? do I run a 12v to each end of the wire after I cut it, or just one? If it's absolutely necessary, why is it listed as optional? I'm not questioning you. Just wondering.

- I've tested both starters, the ignition, and tach wires during remote start, and I get absolutely nothing.

- The clutch bypass is solid. As I've said, I've managed to get the engine to turn, so the clutch is not the problem.

Teken: Why is it necessary to run the tach wire from the dropping resistor? Not to be argumentative, but I've got a good, clean connection at the cluster that meets all the requirements you previously listed.

Please bear with me, but my biggest concern is that I'm not getting ANY signals from any of the wires during remote start, so it seems the tach isn't even an issue at this point. Could you tell me exactly when and how the alarm processes the signal from the tach during the remote start process? Like I said earlier, and Ruf seems to reinforce, it seems to be a power issue ATM.

Please don't get me wrong. I totally respect what everyone has said so far, and I'm too much of a noob to doubt anyone, but I really wanna figure out how this thing works instead of just follow directions I don't understand. Thanks!

iskidoo

Silver - Posts: 1,040

This member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.

Joined: December 08, 2002

Location: Maine, United States

Posted: September 26, 2004 at 12:35 PM / IP Logged

Try starting with the key then activate the remote starter. Now take the key out. Does it remain running?

mrbean01

Member - Posts: 28

Joined: July 30, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: September 27, 2004 at 7:31 PM / IP Logged

The remote start won't activate when the car is already running.

Teken

Gold - Posts: 1,492

Joined: August 04, 2002

Location: Aruba

Posted: September 27, 2004 at 7:37 PM / IP Logged

Please connect *ALL* wires as per the outlined wiring schematics provided above.

We need to follow the basics, otherwise you are wasting valuable time.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

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Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.