oppinion needed

For the JL's probably the W3 (10")  one maybe two.  If I get the money maybe a W6v2 (one 10").  If I go with the Infinity's I might get two on top of the one I already have (three total).  Like I said probably.  Just throwin' up ideas.  Thanks

Any reason your sticking with 10's?  Both those JL's are great subs, the Kappa's are nothing to sneeze at either.

No perticular reasons.  I like how 10"s hit, sometimes tighter than 12" or 13" or 15".  I've been told that I might want to concider 12"s, but normally the 12 doesn't handle THAT much more power than a 10 and I like pullin up and a guy thinks I got like 2 12" or a 15" and I got one or two 10".   Know what I mean?  ; )

what kinda amp are you using right now and are you planning on upgrading it as well?

What is the definition of "a lot of power"?  Like 500w or 1000 w?  And a bat cap as in an Optima battery or just a really large battery looking cap?

BTW thanks for all the info.

Throw the cap idea out the window. A cap does not make power, it stores and consumes it. The best thing that you can do to increase the amount of current is to use ac lampcord for speaker wire, it must be made by Nomo.....haha...... ( no crap I saw this yesterday - from the "best" shop in Quebec City, Ontario) Actually, concentrate first on making the current transfer from battery to amplifier as efficient as possible. Upgrade all the main grounds from the battery to as large a guage as your budget can afford. A good size wire for most moderate systems is 4 gauge. Do the ground wires from battery to chassis, battery to alternator and amp to chassis. The ground wire is your most important wire in the system, it will make or break the capabilities of it. IF this solves the lighting issues, great, if not consider a good Optima yellow top battery.

You can use that Kenmore amplifier for now, there is nothing wrong with underpowering a sub as long as the sub is not seeing a clipped signal (discalimer - some subs can infact hang in for a hella long time playing a clipped signal but it is still not good). Turn the gain down on the amp to ensure that you are not clipping. Driftwood in my opinion is the king of misleading power ratings, what is the size of the fuse in your amp?

As far as the sub system goes, your car will not be acoustically conductive to running two subs. This is based on the coefficient of the ratio of ohm's law and the fact that the PNP transistors in the radio can not provide enough current to charge the flux capacitors in the amplfiers power supply.  If you already have one 10" sub, match a second sub to it. Keep your sub and add a identical one to it. This is going to add another 3 db of output and will thoroughly enhance the "depth" and "impact" in your music. Next it is all box, box, box, box, box. Nail that box bang on for these subs and even with a little amount of power, it will deliver. Of course it will deliver much better with a appropriate amplifier but we can talk more about an amplifier later on. Liek Ravernderat said, don't use a flexible port. Use either a proper aero port or mdf slot port for your box. Box, box, box, box, box is wher it's at. Pour your time into box design first and base it on two subs with separate chambers. This way the box is ready for when you upgrade and add the second sub.