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door wire for roof mount lcd


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Farwell 
Member - Posts: 35
Member spacespace
Joined: April 08, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: September 22, 2004 at 7:03 PM / IP Logged  
I've purchased a roof mount lcd and the dome lights built into the lcd housing have a wire labelled "door".  It's a Clarion OHM102.  I'm assuming this "door" wire is normally tapped into the existing dome light wiring that is hot when the doors are opened.  This is in a Jeep Liberty and the dome lights are controlled by the BCM... body control module aka car computer.  The existing dome lights fade after shutting doors, turn on w/ remote unlock etc.  I'm a little paranoid about just tapping into the existing wiring to the current dome light.  The dome have three wires.  I can use a voltmeter to figure out what's hot when...  with the BCM conrolling the rear dome would it be a bad idea to splice the wires to power the additional lights?  The wiring for the lights in the lcd housing is entirely separate from the power and ground that power the screen.  Any help appreciated. thanks
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Platinum - Posts: 5,352
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Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: September 23, 2004 at 1:22 PM / IP Logged  

Do the lights in the lcd have a separate on / off switch for them?

Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Farwell 
Member - Posts: 35
Member spacespace
Joined: April 08, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: September 23, 2004 at 6:43 PM / IP Logged  
Yes they have a separate switch.  And three wires that supply them.... power, ground, and the "door".  I'm a little concerned about tapping anything bc most of it goes back to the BCM of which I don't want to fry...
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Platinum - Posts: 5,352
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: September 23, 2004 at 6:47 PM / IP Logged  

If this switch is the constant power side of the circuit (it should be), then run it to a wire in the vehicle main harness that gives +12v ignition or +12v constant. It surely will not draw that much current at all. This is the safe bet for you and is very simple to do.

Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

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