problem with drained battery compustar

hello all.

i installed a compustar a/s  in a honda accord 03 ex.everything test out fine,  start up great.

the only problem left is the drained battery.  it have been happening three times.

i wire all the wire up correctly.  i'm using in two additional modules in conjuction with the alarm.  both from bypasskit.com  pkh3 immobilizer bypass  and a HODL2 interface.both work great.

i have my MM in the battery to test it and the voltage is dropping slowly.

i try unplugging things one at a time to see if it stop dropping.nothing yet.i notice just now that when i arm the alarm, lock the door, everything is closed.buti can still see the window roll up/down switch is still light up.  for both the driver and passenger doors.and i reach in and i can still operate the windows  when the car is lock and armed.is this why the battery drain!?   please help this is the last problem i have.  =\  so frustrated.

thanks

nevermind the window light switch  is gone now.

but it's still dropping.

any clue?

Funny thing..my friend just had the high end 2-way compustar installed in his 00 Explorer the other day and the exact same thing happened to him.  I am not sure if they ahve solved the problem yet but one thing they said is that the alarm may not have been allowing the vehicle to go into what they called "sleep mode".  I will try to keep you posted on the solution.

Do you have any current on the ground out when running wire ?Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote: Do you have any current on the ground out when running wire ?

according to the install tech sheet.

connector #1, pin5  violet wireprovide - ouput anytime the unit isarmed or remote started.  this is prewired into the starter-killthere's no current on that wire when armed.

however  when as a test i have the MM on the battery to measure drop voltage.

i remove both the relays for starter kill and 2nd acc/ign/starter   and unhook the data wire from the  HODL2  interface module.  and the the voltage stop dropping.i'm going to try and isolate which of the above is drainning it.  which relays and the data wire?

thanks for the reply guys.

The thing is you NOT supposed to use the STARTER DISABLE wire for your transponder modules or door lock modules because this will always be ON when the system is armed, not to mention this totally defeats the Immobilizer system in the vehicle if the module is engaged while armed. There should be a wire that is ONLY (-) when remote started or one that you can program to only have (-) when remote started ?Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote: The thing is you NOT supposed to use the STARTER DISABLE wire for your transponder modules or door lock modules because this will always be ON when the system is armed, not to mention this totally defeats the Immobilizer system in the vehicle if the module is engaged while armed. There should be a wire that is ONLY (-) when remote started or one that you can program to only have (-) when remote started ?

sorry i should clarify.  the data wire from the door lock module  is connected straight to the car data wire.    when i said i unhook the relays and the data wire i meant i unhook each relay and the data wire also.   the data wire isn't connected to any relay.

sorry for the misleading info.

here's a write up of all the connection i made  from the compustar brain to the car and from the two modules.  and some wiring diagram for everything.

please help me for this is the last problem i have to tackle.this is my first installation of this kind.thank you all

pdf manual for my compustar alarm

with wiring instruction http://www.compustar.org/support/manuals/wiring_manuals/CM3000_wiring_manual.pdf http://www.compustar.org/support/manuals/install_manuals/CM3000_install_manual.pdfwiring diagram for my car http://www.directechs.com/directwire/wire_body.asp?action=select&yr=5234&product=Remote%20Start http://www.directechs.com/directwire/wire_body.asp?action=select&yr=5234&product=Security

wiring diagram for HODL2 door interface

https://shop.bypasskit.com/OriginalManual/HODL2_H1S1D2_I.PDFwiring diagram for PKH3 immobilizer bypass https://shop.bypasskit.com/OriginalManual/PKH3_H6S4D1_I.PDF

connector #1

pin1.  constant power connect to white wire at ign harness, pin 3 is wired to this alsopin2.  positive parking light ouput connect to RED / blk wire plug above fuse box this is confirm, the parking light blink when arm/disarm alarm.pin3.  power the unit and to relay for 2nd ign/2nd acc/2nd starter. the relay is prewired. connect to white wire at ign harness, pin 1 is also wired to this.pin4.  + accessory  activate blower motor for heater/AC connect to BLACK/ red wire in ign harnesspin5.  (-) when armed out  pre-wired into starter-kill relay.pin6. (+)starter output prewired into starter-kill relay. starter kill relay, have two lead to interrupt starter wire. yellow/black to key side of the starter wire. yellow connect to motor side of starter wire. this is confirm. since the car does start with remote.pin7.  (+) ignition  connect to BLACK / YELLOW  in ign harnesspin8.  ground

connector #2

pin1.  (-) parking light output according to diagram it's BLACK/ red or blue/red in steering column cover. couldn't locate so didn't connect.  parking light still work from (+) parking light output from connector#1 pin2pin2.  (-) status out wire i split this wire to the two modules.  Pkh3 immobilizer bypass, HODL2 doorlock  interface. both from bypasskit.com i put a diode in between the modules and the brain. to protect the brain.

 since it's a (-) current   i place the gray dash on the diode toward the brain.

 is this correct?pin3,pin4 and pin5

all of the above is for (-) 2nd igniton/accessory/starter

i can wire the above pin to the 2nd relay to get a (+) trigger ouput.

i have not yet wire any of the above to any connection.

my car have a 2nd accessory.  WHITE/ red in ignition harness.

some one said i should wire the 2nd accessory to  radio harness so the radio would come on when remote started.

please advise what i should do with the above wires.

Connector #3

pin1. parking brake. did not use.  i have a auto tranny. and i don't need turbo timer. wat is turbo timer for?  it suppose to keep the car running when the ebrake is  engage and it shut off the car after 5 minutes?

 is it for car with turbo?pin2. (-) shutdown for hood trigger. wired to HODL2 module.  wire to violet/white (-)hood trigger ouput. this is confirm. alarm won't arm when hood is open and won't remotestart car.pin3. shutdown for foot brake. WHITE/ blck  at brake pedal switch. confirm.  car shut down when press on brake w/o key inpin4. (-) trigger input for trunk pin. connect to (-) trunk input orange wire in HODL2pin5. (-) trigger input for door connect to (-) door trigger input pink/white wire in HODL2pin6. (+) input trigger for door i don't have (+) trigger for door.  not connected.pin7/8 glow plug.  only for diesel car.  not connected.

pin9. tach wire.

 connect to blue/red tach wire in ECM. confirm with compustar brain.

connector #4

pin1. no connectionpin2. (-) 200mA trunk release. wire to a relay to convert the polarity for my (+) trunk release wire. confirm. trunk open.pin3. driver's door priority unlock. not connected.pin4. (+)/(-) lock ouput  connect to lock input in HODL2pin5.  (+)/(-) lock ouput connect to unlock input in HODL2 both confirm.  door unlock/lock with remotepin6.  no connection

connector #5

pin1 rearm wirepin2 disarm wire not connected to both.  since HODL2 will disarm/arm the factory alarm.pin3 domelight wire. not connected. my interior light already come on when unlock.pin4. siren output.  connected and confirmpin5.   horn honk.  connected and confirm.

thanks again.  please provide help asap.

i'm trying to finish and clean up this whole install by this weekend.this is the second weekend i spent on this.