Passlock II Suffering

Great site!  Will donate ASAP, but nearly penniless due to repeated Passlock probs.  Passlock activated on 2001 Sunfire.  Tried all of the usual resets and home remedies.  Went to hard tamper mode.  Took to dealer...diag code showed bad ignition switch ($250 plus $115 towing).  Car ran for less than a week.  Back in hard tamper mode.  Back to dealer (towed).  Dealer tells me he's seen Passlock generate "phantom error codes" resulting in replacement of parts that are OK.  He says there must be more "defective parts" someplace else in the system.  I've read postings on this and other sites that lead me to believe I'm being taken down a path many have been down (i.e. nearly everybody gets a new lock cylinder out of the deal and then a long line of new parts).  I'm just a simple, retired civilian.  No real expertise in auto repair.  Wife is terrified to drive the car as she's afraid it will lock down in a bad neighborhood...etc.  Is there a fix, other than selling the car and buying a 1965 without any computerized stuff?  Do any bypass units fix my problem?  What if the Passlock computer is bad, seems that all of them must be?  If Passlock is bad, can it be bypassed (I understand risks and have suffered long enough to accept them).  Can't afford to keep going to dealer for new parts that may, or may not, be bad.  Dealer service manager tells me that Passlock failures are a matter of "when" not "if".  If so, I'd risk having a car stolen rather than die of a heart attack in my garage because I can't get to a hospital.  So, Passlock appears to be a noble attempt that's gone wrong.  Are there any noble sorts out there willing to help a "greybeard"?

Dear Greybeard,

The Passlock system can be bypassed, but it will still be retained. What you can do is purchase a bypass module and have it permanently bypassed by supplying the ground out when running wire a (-) when ignition is on or have the (+) lead go to ignition and the ground out when running wire go to straight ground. This will permanently bypass the Passlock through the bypass module. The only thing is, if the Passlock is still setting hard codes, the bypass module may or may not stop this from happening, so the problem may persists. This is only a band aid fix, but can help remedy your problems for now for a much smaller cost to you and your cheque book.

I know this is not a practice that is supported by many installer's but in your situation, this can help you out until you can afford to replace or repair the Passlock system properly.

Thanks all.  extreme1 mentions a recall.  However, this was directed to a problem where the ignition switch could catch fire (!!) due to high voltage passing thru a switch not stout enough to handle amps needed to spin the starter.   A relay was inserted.  My car was thus repaired...then the problems began with Passlock.  The key has no chip, like older models.  Gus1's advice about the 1 meg resistor is appealing, but have read that temperature and other factors could make such a car nearly as unreliable as it is now.  The moderator (Velocity Motors) response sounds most viable...installing a bypass.  First dealer denied that bypasses existed.  Liability I guess.

Will this get the car going if there's a problem with the Passlock computer?  Are there "plug-in" bypasses?  Is this a fix someone of reasonable skill could complete...I'm aged, not stupid.  Do you recommend a brand or model?  I don't have (or want) a remote starter.  I'm quite heartened by the advice so far.  I'm a "belt and suspenders" type who likes to know contingencies before I dive in.  Also, I'm a moral kind of guy, and not looking for a quick fix so I can dump the car on some unsuspecting person.  I will seek out a proper repair when funds permit and won't dispose of the car until then.  I know this is all very elementary for most of you...but, I appreciate all advice.

Thanks Sparky...been there.  Dealer seems more determined than confused by the problem.  I'm located in a very remote part of Southwest US and seeking out another dealer is not an option.  He paid for second tow and said he'll credit my payment for the "bad" ignition switch to future repairs.  Not all dealers are skunks...this guy seems to be as frustrated as I have been.  Much more helpful than "GM Customer Assistance" (appears to be an oxymoron that statement-see below)  Refer to my first posting...detailing my concern about being led down a too familiar path.  There are thousands of postings with the symptoms my car has...very few carved in rock cures...nearly all get a new switch...with unpredictable results.  Here's a paranoid hypothesis for auto electrics folks to consider.  This is hypothetical and for purely academic consideration only.

Matter of "when" not "if" a failure.  Nearly all of the postings have mileages of 60-70K (mine 64K at first failure 74K at lockup) and known generation of phantom codes to the diagnostic computer.  Consider if the BCM is acting as a random fault generator...it fails on an irregular basis and self-corrects on an irregular schedule.  Each failure generates a false error code...the first of which is generally a bad ignition switch.  Consider the following loop:

1) Unit fails randomly-car won't start  2) Owner does self-help reset dance (may not really do anything) 3) car may start (goes back to pre-#1) or won't start and 4) Owner takes car to shop and shop acts on phantom error code (i.e. ignition switch) 5) shop replaces "bad" switch and the car starts (might have started anyway), dealer yells success and goes back to pre- #1 or car won't start and dealer continues to 6) new error code 7) replace newly indicated "bad" part...and on and on and on.  Eventually the irregularly malfunctioning system reaches a long pause in the chain and the car is declared fixed (but may fail again).  Hey I know it sounds paranoid, but it's more plausible than anything GM has told me..."the switches almost always wear out in 60K miles" (I was entertained by ths as I once drove a taxi...in 300K miles per car we never wore out an ignition switch), "sunspots" (seriously!), "it's just time to buy a new car" (a room clearing favorite).  GM also states specifically that the ignition switch is not part of the system...odd, as it has a Hall effect switch inside that's wired to the system.

Again, any recommendations as to make and model of possible bypass module for home installer?  Sounds like my best bet.  Appreciate all advice.

Thanks all!  The DEI 555L it is...I got the same recommendations from many others in your business.  Since resistors cost virtually pennies, I'll give the resistor fix a try first while I await receipt of the bypass...nothing to lose...everything to gain.

I promise heartily that I'll contribute to this site as soon as possible...in less than 24 hours, my frantic inquiry got almost 80 looks and 10% offered virtually free assistance...an amazingly great ratio.  The next time I hear someone say bad things about people who work on cars as universally being "crooks", I promise to scold them and send them to this site.  You have no idea how much I appreciate this site and its contributors.  Give yourselves a pat on the back!

I remain convinced that Passlock I & II and VATS are bad systems arising from good intent.  There are thousands of frustrated and angry GM owners because of those systems.  It's a shame that the manufacturer's response is limited to, "Yes, the system has its problems, but it's the price we pay for an effective anti-theft system."  Those words will be hollow when a young woman is assaulted because Passlock won't let her car start in a tough neighborhood...it's a matter of "when", not "if", to use the words of my former GM Service Mgr.

Bless you all!