Installing Road Gear Amplifier

---I am a beginner installer. Please bear with me, I have completely rewired my Scout II using a new fuse panel and custom wiring kit from Ron Francis'  Wire Works, an isolated ground system,  a circuit bvreaker panel and other components that are not applicable to the topic here.

---I have a Road Gear 250 Watt 2-Channel Mosfet Amplifier that is going into my restored, daily driver  1973 IHC Scout II. It was pulled from an IHC Traveler along with a Pioneer Supertuner IID. Both worked fine when originally installed in the Traveler, the Pioneer works fine in the Scout II. I had a Pyramid 100W Amp in the Scout II and it worked with the Pioneer.

---Now that my son has snipped all the wires from the Road Gear Amp, I have no idea where to start. I have tried the way the Pyramid is hooked up, Remote from the head unit to the remote on the amp (10 gauge), 12v power supply from the circuit breaker panel (10 gauge), ground (-) to the isolated ground system (10 gauge), speakers to the un-bridged mounting screws and rear speaker wires from the head unit to the Low-Input RCA jacks. I don't get so much as static and it sounded very good in the Traveler.

---If you suggest I bridge the speakers, please describe how this is done. I have never  bridged an amp yet. My understanding is that you simply wire the L(+) and R(-) to one speaker and the L(-) and R(+) to the other. I don't understand what this would do, but hey... what do I know. Explaination of how this works would be great too. One is never too old to learn.

---Would be nice to get a reply here. Maybe even a suggestion on a place where I can find Jensen wiring diagrams. The JEN site has been down for at least a week and I would like to know if this amp is working so I can get on with what else I have to do in the truck.

---I'd appreciate any input you can offer, as to what each area of the amp covers (i.e., remote wire, +12v, High-input, low-input and bridged). As I stated in the original post, amplifiers are new to me and I can use any help you can offer, even if it means talking to me as if I were a 12 year old... lol.

---I'm going to cruise the board for a while and show that I can be of some service in the place so you alldon't think I am going to ask my question and leave. As you can see, I have the board settings to email me when there is a response to any of my posts, and I have returned to "talk shop". Hope I can be of assistance to someone and hope someone can be of assistance to me.

---Going to perform some minor tests, hopefully bringing this subject back to life will bring new viewers in to give a reply. I did however get a slight "THUMP" in the head reading a reply from stevdart in another member's post that might help until someone has any other suggestions.

---Minor test = 2nd post in this topic

---I am thinking that this model is obsolete or else it would not have been left in the vehicle when sold. All I can find is the serial number on the back, but no part number. All I have found so far on Google is webpages others' have created where they discussed that it is not an under-rated amp, it is 250W that actually meets what it claims... lot of help that is... and I have emailed those who had links and inquired about the correct way to wire this amp. I haven't been by Wal-Mart or Radio Shack in a while, so I will spin there and see what I can come up with.

---Thanks for the reply DXAV. It is well appreciated.

12v power supply from the circuit breaker panel (10 gauge)

ground (-) to the isolated ground system (10 gauge

 rear speaker wires from the head unit to the Low-Input RCA jacks.

^^ Some of the things I don't understand from your original post.  I don't get the isolated ground system, so...maybe some of the things that normally occur with a 12 volt system would apply differently with your car, I don't know.  Power wire normally should be direct from battery to the amp, and 10 ga. is small.  But I guess in this case might be adequate.  Ground is normally to the chassis, but with your different ground system, it would go directly back to the battery or a part of the chassis that is included in that isolated ground system.

However it goes, the amp has to have power feed from the alternator, via the battery, and grounding through the same grounding system the alt and battery share.

The third item, might be a typo, but speaker wires to RCA jacks?  Aren't you connecting the head unit to the amp with RCA cables?  And don't consider bridging anything to that amplifier unless it's labelled to be wired as such.  It's a two channel amp capable of supporting two speakers.  Just connect your left and right speakers to the appropriate terminals.  BTW, you didn't mention what you are using for speakers, how many, nothing.  And I don't know what kinds of wires an amplifier would have that would be snipped off, although I've heard of some of the old amps having direct wires instead of sockets or terminals.

Crutchfield Advisor has some good basic tutorials you can follow to get you started.