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door trigger testing


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2001edge 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: September 29, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 03, 2002 at 10:47 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, either I'm way too tired or I'm just way off base.  Either way, I'M STUCK.

Anyone know for sure if a 2001 Ranger uses + or - indication to the door trigger on open?  I seem to be getting 12v regardless of the door being open or closed?

Am I just testing the thing wrong or what? I'm using a DMM so is it as simple as having the polarity crossed? I doubt it since I've tested both ways? Seems simple, if I'm testing for + then the + term on the DMM should be at the target wire, right? Just rambling now....still tired :)

They're the LAST ones I have to check before I start splicing. Help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks all.

Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark; professionals built the Titanic!
mobiletoys2002 
Gold - Posts: 1,050
Gold spacespace
Joined: April 12, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 04, 2002 at 5:59 AM / IP Logged  
the drivers door is yellow/black the passenger door is grey/red  use both and diode isolate them these are negative trigger wires  you can find these wires in a module to the left of the radio.  You are testing for a negative trigger give the red lead of your meter 12 volts and probe target wires with the black lead.
kickyride 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 20, 2002
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: October 04, 2002 at 4:41 PM / IP Logged  

If that doesn't work for you, you can also use the (+)BLACK/ light blue wire in the large wiring harness above the accelorator. Hope this helps.

Mike
Sales/Tech Support - KICKYRIDEoCOM mobile electronics
MECP 1st class-Security Specialist
2001edge 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: September 29, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 04, 2002 at 4:47 PM / IP Logged  

Well, the driver one seems to be testing fine now (don't know what I'm doing different). It's still measuring a little voltage with the door even closed ( about 3.25V ). The passenger doesn't ground out at all yet though.

Mike, is the blk/LtBlue the driver or the passenger?

Thanks again all.

Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark; professionals built the Titanic!
2001edge 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: September 29, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 05, 2002 at 12:22 PM / IP Logged  

Got it - there's two gy/rd wires that run to the module?

Thanks folks.

Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark; professionals built the Titanic!
kickyride 
Copper - Posts: 100
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 20, 2002
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: October 05, 2002 at 5:04 PM / IP Logged  

Actually the blk/blue is after the central control module so it covers both doors. If you found the two independant wires and are comfortable with diodes, then that is the best way to go. The BLACK/ blue is just the easiest. Sorry for the late reply.

Mike
Sales/Tech Support - KICKYRIDEoCOM mobile electronics
MECP 1st class-Security Specialist

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