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Sub Box?


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Nat_87 
Copper - Posts: 34
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2004
Location: Australia
Posted: November 08, 2004 at 6:49 PM / IP Logged  

STEVDART- when you say 'But you should be able to get good complimentary low bass out of it with a modest system. ' What would you discribe as a modest system?

Mine is set up as following:

Pioneer TS-A6990S 5way 400w 6x9z

Pioneer TS-C160R 6" splits

Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch. amp running the above speakers

Audiobahn AW120T 12" 500RMS Sub (was a present Sub Box? - Page 2 -- posted image. )

Pioneer GM-D510M mono amp running the above sub

& a AERPRO 1 Farad Capacitor

So what does everyone think? will it complement the rest of the system?

Cheers!

       ~* Cheer Nat *~
Pioneer DEH-7650MP
Pioneer TS-C160R
Pioneer TS-A6990S
Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch Amp
Audiobahn AW120T 12" Sub
Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp
AERPRO 1F Capacitor
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 08, 2004 at 7:17 PM / IP Logged  

Yes, that should be fine.  I just meant that because the specs for the sub say it is 500 watts RMS, the parameters really don't put it in the catategory of "monster sub" capable of deafening SPL.  So expect some good low bass, but don't expect to rock the block.

As for the port size, the opening is important, as too small of an opening will cause chuffing sounds as air is expelled.  A good rule is no less than 25% of sub diameter, although I wouldn't go less than 4".  Note that the port length grows when the opening gets bigger, but ports can be built with a bend inside the box.  As always, the bigger the port the more it displaces air in the chamber, so the box has to grow to compensate.

Look at it on WinIsd, Nat.  It is one of only a handful of familiar sub brands that are included in the database, and that's why I'm pushing it on you so hard.  It means you don't have to type in all the parameters because they're already there.  You just select "new project", select your sub from the scroll down menu, and click through each window.  The program has determined the best design based on the sub parameters.  You look at that first, and then if the size doesn't work for you, play with changing things and let the program adjust to the changes.  I would recommend using what the program determines for that particular sub, because the enclosure is small enough to be easy to work with.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
heavilymedicate 
Silver - Posts: 328
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 05, 2004
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: November 08, 2004 at 9:05 PM / IP Logged  

I guess you already have a decent deck?  I like it, looks like a good entry level system, that sub should really fill in your bottom end and I'm glad your putting real power to your components and 6x9's (ewww 6x9's).  Should be loud and clear.

Rushman 
Silver - Posts: 380
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 28, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 08, 2004 at 9:20 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks again Stevdart.............I know this was for NAT but was educational for me as well like learning to use about 25% of a subs diameter for port size and alowing for bends in the port tube. I was curious about that since the WinISD said that a 4" tube should be about 20" for that sub. I was thinking thats a long box for just the one sub but now I know you can bend the tube , if I understood you correctly on that.
99 F-one fitty
Pioneer Premier H/U
Alpine EQ
Kicker 1200 amp
4 Kicker comp 10s
6 kicker SS65.2 components
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 08, 2004 at 9:33 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah you  did, Rushman.  That's where PVC comes in so handy for making tubes.  I would think to take the overall parameters of the sub into consideration, as well as the number that are occupying a box.  This sub has a small Xmax, so it's not going to be pushing the air that a lot of other subs would.  A 3" would probably work fine for it.  Whereas some subs would work best with a slotted port because it's easier to get the port volume needed.  And multiple subs in a chamber sometimes should use two or more ports.  There is a calculator that I've looked at that gives outrageous figures for minimum port size....... here.  I can't imagine getting to what is suggested there in most cases.  Here is a long list of calculators and equations you might want to bookmark.  There are a few equations (not calculators) for minimum port diameter but I'm not so mathematically inclined to try to figure them out.....yet.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Rushman 
Silver - Posts: 380
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 28, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 08, 2004 at 10:04 PM / IP Logged  

Yeah this is what I too have been looking for with those box formula's. Up until now I just used the info that comes on the spec sheet from the manufactor of subs and kinda filled in the blanks the best I could. I usually came out pretty good but now with those formula's , I can narrow it down to a more exact science. Hopefully to maximize a speakers potential. Im half a$$ tempted to spend some time in the shop this weekend and experiment now with the formula's. (Especialy with PVC ports). BTW......Thanks again for you and everyone else's time and experience to help me take this game to the next level for me. Props to All yall Dawgs !

99 F-one fitty
Pioneer Premier H/U
Alpine EQ
Kicker 1200 amp
4 Kicker comp 10s
6 kicker SS65.2 components
Nat_87 
Copper - Posts: 34
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2004
Location: Australia
Posted: November 09, 2004 at 12:49 AM / IP Logged  

Ok, thanks for all your help. Next question, when i have the specs for the box and hav it all cut out, what/ if any stuff should i use to put inside the box. I have heard a few things, ranging from some sort of coating to cover the inside of the box, to putting foam or some sort of filling inside.? What does you the more experienced people think on this matter?

Cheers

       ~* Cheer Nat *~
Pioneer DEH-7650MP
Pioneer TS-C160R
Pioneer TS-A6990S
Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch Amp
Audiobahn AW120T 12" Sub
Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp
AERPRO 1F Capacitor
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 09, 2004 at 7:32 AM / IP Logged  
For a vented enclosure, put nothing else in it.  Use MDF and seal the driver and port into it, and leave the rest of the inside alone.  With large capacity subs, sometimes deadening spray is used on the inside along with ample bracing.  But bracing is more important than anything else inside the box.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
boxmaker85 
Silver - Posts: 433
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 19, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 09, 2004 at 10:13 AM / IP Logged  

Yeah if your box is made to good specifications then you don't really need polyfill or a liner.  One normally sees it with sealed boxes that may come up a tad small or it is possibly lined with it to prevent a standing wave forming inside a box.

Nat_87 
Copper - Posts: 34
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2004
Location: Australia
Posted: November 09, 2004 at 4:02 PM / IP Logged  
heavilymedicate wrote:

I guess you already have a decent deck?  I like it, looks like a good entry level system, that sub should really fill in your bottom end and I'm glad your putting real power to your components and 6x9's (ewww 6x9's).  Should be loud and clear.

LOL, i just read this just now sorry. My deck is a Pioneer DEH-P7650MP it has 3 prevolt outputs etc, its like 2nd or 3rd from the top. :D And also what do you have against 6x9z, these ones a sick they go so hard, if i had them in b4 i decided to put in the sub too i would not hav worried bout the sub. lol

So would i worry about bracing? And if so how do i go about doing that? when you say bracing do you mean like little corner bracket thingies Sub Box? - Page 2 -- posted image. .

Cheers!

       ~* Cheer Nat *~
Pioneer DEH-7650MP
Pioneer TS-C160R
Pioneer TS-A6990S
Pioneer GM-6000F 4ch Amp
Audiobahn AW120T 12" Sub
Pioneer GM-D510M Mono Amp
AERPRO 1F Capacitor
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