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My Little amp big power?


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jeffchilcott 
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Posted: November 08, 2004 at 10:36 PM / IP Logged  
Ok interesting question, as many of you know I am running a set of hc50's by memphis   rated as follows....25x2@4 50x2@2 100x2@1 200x2@1/2   50x1@4 100x1@2 200x1@1 and 400x1@1/2       
So I decided to test out this bad boy on a meter today just to have fun....here is what I got at 3/4 volume on the head unit gain set properly, ect ect...current draw was bouncing between 36-38amps..and volts on the output side was Spiking around 47volts!!!!!    
Now per ohms law, this means I would have a Spike at somewhere about 1800watts!!!!   What the ???    Now yes the voltage typically was around 18-25 but when it would hit low it would spike to 47, I know when the low signal was going from the internal speakers....Any Thoughts or ideas on this???
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jeffchilcott 
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Posted: November 08, 2004 at 11:04 PM / IP Logged  
Read Me, Answer me, I want to go to bed....haha
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quick4321 
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Posted: November 08, 2004 at 11:37 PM / IP Logged  
I ran a Memphis HC50 on 3 Dual voice coil subs. Ohm'd as low as you can get 3 DVCs. I think it was a little above a 1/4 ohm? It was SICK Loud.. But you could cook eggs on the amp after a few hours of play. BUT damn it was a bad azz amp.
quick4321 
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Posted: November 08, 2004 at 11:39 PM / IP Logged  

I ran a Memphis HC50 on 3 Dual voice coil subs. Ohm'd as low as you can get 3 DVCs. I think it was a little above a 1/4 ohm? It was SICK Loud.. But you could cook eggs on the amp after a few hours of play. BUT damn it was a bad azz amp.

I called memphis to discuss running their HC50 amp below the recomeded Ohm load and off the record they said it would run strong, but on the record they said it would void warrany and woudlnt work. (It ran like a champ as I wrote above)

audiocableguy 
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Posted: November 09, 2004 at 10:08 AM / IP Logged  
Take a look at jbl.com under car audio. As a demo a 60 hz
wave is fed into one of their amps and a Sawzall is connected and used to cut an amp in half. So that's 120V @ 8 amps. Takes a while to load. Voltage is great, speakers are motors and need amperage too!
jeffchilcott 
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Posted: November 09, 2004 at 4:30 PM / IP Logged  
So far I am getting a reading of twice the recommened rms power and twice the peak power as well,   can anyone say cheater amp??????
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Rushman 
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Posted: November 09, 2004 at 5:26 PM / IP Logged  
Isnt that basicly what the old Orion HCCA amps were?
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dpaton 
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Posted: November 09, 2004 at 5:53 PM / IP Logged  
jeffchilcott wrote:
Now per ohms law, this means I would have a Spike at somewhere about 1800watts!!!!   What the ???    Now yes the voltage typically was around 18-25 but when it would hit low it would spike to 47, I know when the low signal was going from the internal speakers....Any Thoughts or ideas on this???
It's called peak power. Those spikes aren't generally sustainable for any kind of long term duration, but are available for short times.
One of my favorite tests for an amp is a low frequency sinewave at the point just a skotch before clipping. Low frequencies because they require the power supply caps to do their thing a LOT. High voltage because it forces the amp to operate at the voltage and current limits of it's power supply, and maybe it's output devices. If it can sustain a large voltage swing into a load with a good amount of current without sagging or overheating, I consider it a good amp. The other test I do is to rate the amp at 8 ohms, then 4 with the same test, then 2 if it seems realistic after the 4 ohm test. Math tells us that if the output voltage remains the same, the current should double, quadrupling the power to the load (P=I^2*R). If the voltage doesn't sag when I switch in the other half of my dummy load, then it's better than good. It's great. I haven't met an amp in a long time that could do that tho. Usually manufacturers rate their amps at the lowest load, and then compute the higher load powers backward (100@2-> 50@4-> 25@8). While it easily lets the amp pass the tests, it masks the real character of the amp, which should be listed much closer to it's real outputs at each load (100@2, 69@4, 57@8).
The specs I just mentioned are for a real amp I've got in the basement, that I consider just passable. It's a decent amp with a very undersized, and <i>severely</i> current limited, power supply. That judgement is derived entirely from my own philosophy of course, but I look at it like this: Amps should be rated from the highest regular load first. Period. The ratings at lower impedence loads tell you immediately if the power supply or the output stage is the limiting factor, and lets you know whether or not the designers were concerned with cost over performance. MTX has been using this trick for years, as did RF for a while, and a number of others. Yes, it looks awesome when your 500W amp puts out 750W, but why are they selling it with it's numbers 20% derated, except for the phallic envy factor that still permeates the market?
-dave
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dragonrage 
Copper - Posts: 193
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Posted: November 13, 2004 at 10:47 PM / IP Logged  

You must also take amplifier efficiency into account. If it's class AB, then it's probably about 50% (could be even less, possibly down to about 30%). If it's class D (I highly doubt it if it's 2 channel), then maybe 80%.

dpaton: Varying power levels with varying resistances makes sense electronically. A transistor is like a switch that goes in series with the speaker. As the transistor opens, its resistance drops, so more of the supply voltage is dropped in the speaker. With an ideal transistor, the voltage to the speaker at max volume would be the amplifiers supply voltage. This is not the case in reality, but it is not too far off. Going with the formula P = V˛/R, you can see how the power will vary with different loads, even if the transistor is rated for some specific power. To make an amplifier compensate for different resistive loads is stupid - you'd have to limit the power going through at the greater loads (lower resistances) for consistency.

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