the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

switch for neon strobes


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
Phenz 
Copper - Posts: 48
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 22, 2004 at 12:27 PM / IP Logged  

I would appreciate any help with the following:

I have strobe lights (streetglow) installed in the inside of my car (under each seat, and under the dash). I also have strobes set up in my headlights, and grill.

I would like to add a pushbutton switch for each (SPST Push on-Push off switch rated @ 3amps at 250VAC).

I know this is not a 12VDC switch, but will I still be able to use this for my project?

I think I read somewhere that if the circuit requires more curren tthan the switch can handle, then a relay might be necessary. Can I use this switch without a relay? If not, what kind of relay would I need, and how would I connect everything? 

I have been trying to search the Forum for any info, but have not been able to find a soultion. I would really appreciate any assistance you guys can offer.

I have already been able to install a Pioneer in-dash dvd player, 2 monitors (one sunvisor, and overhead) thanks to all the info I found on this site. I even installed an underbody neon kit (gold series streetglow).

Thanks,

PHENZ

genehewett 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2003
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: November 23, 2004 at 10:58 PM / IP Logged  

    Depending on the current requirements of the strobs you may or may not be able to use only the switch. I would recomend using the relay. You need a standard SPST relay but most likely you will find a SPDT relay. You can use eather of the two. I recomend wiring the contacts as follows.

One side of your switch to ground, the other side to contact #85 on the relay.

Wire contacts #30 and #86 to a fused power source.

Wire contact #87 to the +12v wire for your strobe power supply leave it grounded as it is now.

If you got any questions let me know.

Phenz 
Copper - Posts: 48
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 24, 2004 at 8:48 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks! I am still a litlle confused, since this is a bit more complicated than just running 2 wires.

From what I see, the switch I bought will be on the ground cable of the relay. Can I ground this cable to the existing ground for my strobes (in other words tap into the same ground cable) or should I ground it at another point?

Also can I just run a jumper from #30 to #86, or do I need to run 2 seperate power cables?

How can I determine what kind of fuses I should use on a line? Should I always just place a big fuse on the line, or will this not work?

Thanks for your help. I am learning so much throught this site.

genehewett 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2003
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: November 24, 2004 at 8:24 PM / IP Logged  
   Ok lets see if i can help you out. First off yes you can make a jumper for contacts 30 and 86 but where ever you connect to a power source make sure you use a fuse. Now a relay or most relays dont have a ground cable. Since you are not sure if your switch will handle the current then you are using the relay to switch your load or in your case the power supply for the strobs. Your switch is SPST this tells me it has only 2 connectors on it to hook a wire up to. Actually your switch is just turning on or off the relay that will turn off or on your strobs. Let me start by telling you about a relay. The relays we are talking about have eather 4 or 5 terminals on them (4 on a SPST relay) and (5 on a SPDT relay). First lets talk about the switching part of the relay. It works just like the switch you have now you hook power to one side and your acc. to the other side and then ground your acc. you can relate the terminals #30 and #87 just like your switch's two terminals The only differances is you activate your switch with your hand and you activate a relay with your battery power and the other differance is the relay will handle many times more current. Now for the part that replaces your hand to activate the circuit. Contacts #85 and #86 are the coil terminals. When you ground one of these terminals and apply 12v to the other one it makes the other contacts #30 and #87 close or touch this is how it activates your circuit. I hope this has been helpfull. Also this sight has some good relay wireing samples you should check them out here
Phenz 
Copper - Posts: 48
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 26, 2004 at 9:55 AM / IP Logged  

Wow. I can't thank you enough. That explanation is great!

I will set up my strobes as per your explanation this weekend. I will aslo be sure to read up more on relays, as I had no idea how helpful/necessary they can be.

Do you know how I should go about determining what kind of fuses I should be using?

genehewett 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2003
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: November 27, 2004 at 10:47 PM / IP Logged  
    I dont think that that require much current at all but to find out how much you need to use a ammeter. You can also use a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) some are capable of measuring up to 10amps. After you find out how much current the system uses add about 5% more and use that fuse value.
Phenz 
Copper - Posts: 48
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2004 at 8:54 AM / IP Logged  

I am learning alot from you. Thanks!!!

I will go to radio shack later and see if I can pick one up. You recommend an AMmeter over the DVOM right?

I alos have a car (nissan maxima 87) that has the battery die out after a few days of not being used. The battery is brand new, so I am led to beleive that there must be something in the car (old alarm, radio, etc) that is killing the battery. I remember reading in an old post here that to help diagnose the problem, I should use a meter of some sort sort to check each and every fuse. By doing so, I would be able to see which fuse was draining too much current, and by pulling it out, be able to determine where the problem was coming from.

My question is which meter should I use to do this. Would the AMmeter work?

ff-mike 
Copper - Posts: 199
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2004 at 11:42 AM / IP Logged  
GeneHewett touched on the fuse issue, and then it became a no-brainer.
What size fuse is on the unit? The switch should have at least the same rating as the fuse.
Phenz 
Copper - Posts: 48
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2004 at 11:51 AM / IP Logged  

Currently there is no fuse on my strobe light connections. I am going to add a realy with my new switch, and was wondering what size fuse I should add.

GeneHewett suggested I purchase a Ammeter to read the draw, and add a fuse which is about 5% more that the current draw value.

Do you have any other suggestions?

ff-mike 
Copper - Posts: 199
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 29, 2004 at 1:07 PM / IP Logged  
I looked at Streetglow's website and found the Pro Series, which claims that is has 4 80w strobe tubes in the kit. It should be 80 watt power supply. If it is an 80w supply then you would use a 10A fuse. Does the documentation have any recommendations in it?
Page of 2

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Friday, April 19, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer