Installing alarm in 93 civic

Hi, I am installing a CodeAlarm 125 Alarm system in my mothers 1993 Honda Civic EX (2 door w/SRS, w/o Factory Security) and have some questions regarding the wiring.  Specifically the "Dome Light Supervision Output" connection, the "Positive/Negative Door Input" connection, and the "Low Current Horn Output" connection.

For the dome light, the wiring diagrams that I have (and from what I can see in the car) shows:  a WHITE/ Green (battery) wire leads to the dome light switch.  The "ON" position leads to a ground point.  From the "Door" Position (so light goes on when doors are open, etc) shows a GREEN/ Red wire that splits, and runs to the passenger door switch on one leg, and on the other leg it runs through the beeper circuit (i.e. seat belt warning, key-on, etc), and exits this circuit as a GREEN/ Blue wire and then runs to the driver door switch. (The door switches appear to be one wire switches that use the switch casing/car body for ground).

I am thinking that I can connect both, the "Dome Light Supervision Output" and "Negative Door Input" wires to the GREEN/ Blue wire that leads to the driver door switch.  Is this the correct/best way to connect this so that the alarm will function correctly (i.e. open either door while armed will set off alarm, alarm arming is delayed and warning is given if door is open when attempting to arm system, and dome light goes on/off with lock/unlock, etc).

As for the "Low Current Horm Output" connection the wiring diagram I have shows a Blue/Green wire runs from the horn switch to the horn relay.  I am thinking that this is the correct wire to connect to, but this differs from the info from this site which shows:  Horn Wire | Blue/Red (-) | Steering Column, Use Relay.

Aside from the above, because this car does not have the factory security installed, I wonder if there is an unused connector somewhere along the wiring harness (that would normally be used for factory security) that I can use to make some of the alarm connections.  Anyone know?

Here are some relevant links:

• Wiring Info from the12volt vehicle info database
• CA125 Alarm Owner's Manual (PDF)
• CA425 (Main Module for above alarm) Installation Manual (PDF)

Additionally,  I need to install a trunk release solenoid (car has a built in manual trunk release located next to drivers seat),  any tips for doing this with this car?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide  :)

Thanks for the help.  I have some questions regarding what you posted.

BTW: In my original post the battery wire for the dome light should read WHITE/ Blue and not WHITE/ Green.

As for the horn connection, are you saying that I should use an additional relay, or are those connections for the horn relay allready in the car?  Here is a pic of the basic layout of the in-car horn wiring.

From the above pic, where should I make the connection (again, I am thinking the Blue/Green wire)?

As for the Dome Light Supervision and Door Input connections, are you speaking of the GREEN/ Red wire that leads to the Passenger Door Switch (from the description of this wiring in my original post), or a different GREEN/ Red wire (and if so, the probable location(s))?  Is this a different circuit from the Dome Light/ Door Switches?

As for the Door Locks, I wondered about that connector (2 pin plug taped behind fusebox), and tested it and read no voltage from those wires.  I ran the DL wires to the door lock switch in the drivers door (haven't connected them yet) and was hoping for a better location then in the door.  Are you sure about that connector (and if so, any idea why I read no voltage from these wires on the DMM (normally and when locking/unlocking doors)?

Thanks again,

Russ

BTW:  Here is a basic pic of the dome light/door switch circuit (in case my description was confusing... and again the beeper circuit is the seat belt warning, etc, audible indicators (beeper), etc).

Is the above GREEN/ Red wire the one you are speaking of?

Regarding the door locks,  yes I am sure I used a good ground, and I had allready tried a test similair to the one you do not recommend (hehe), and nothing happened.  I also tried a continuity test between those wires and the wires in the door and had no continuity.  I tried with key on as well and still nothing...  Considering the Power Door Lock Control is inside of the drivers door (and the only power door lock switch is also in that door) I am not sure why there would be wires under the dash for that purpose (other than the wires to unlock the passenger door and maybe for a security system), but it would be nice (but still I wonder what that connector is for then, and why the wire colors match, etc.)

I am using to diiferent sources for the wiring diagrams, a Haynes manual (yeah I know), and a Factory Service manual that I found on the Net in PDF form.

Both manuals show the same wiring for the horn as in my diagram.  For your horn test, how long would I have to hold down the horn (and drive my neighboors nuts (programming this thing should be amusing, lol)) to test.  A quick test shows voltages dropping in both of the (Blue/Green and Blue/Red) wires when pressing the horn, but I did not hold it down long enough for either to reach zero (or close to zero).  Also, if my diagram is correct, which wire would you use (maybe I am just not understanding correctly which wire is the high current wire, and which is the low current wire (again, my thinking is the low current wire would be the one that triggers the relay))?

As for the Door trigger,  I noticed that the Haynes manual actually shows more of the actual circuit (but gives no indication of the location of the wires) then the factory manual does, so there are more connections then shown in my diagram (connector C417, wherever that is (somewhere under the dash I believe), but I will check the driver running board and test those wires as well.

Thanks again,

Russ

I tested both horn wires, and both drop to zero when the horn is pressed.  If I used an additionally relay, then the connections I would use (as described by you) are identical to the connections used by the horn relay itself, where as Pin86 would be the one that is currently connected to the Blue/Green wire.  Because of this, I think I will connect to that. as I originally thought to do (if I used an additional relay, then I agree that the Blue/Red wire would be the correct one to use, but I do not want to add another relay if it is not necessary).

As for that connector (for the door locks?), maybe it only works with a factory security system installed (i.e. something in the factory system is needed to complete the circuit to the doors)?

Thanks again for the help, and I will look into that situation with the trunk release.

Russ

Hi,  thanks again for the help.  The alarm is in, and everything seems to be working correctly (that blue LED is bright, lol).  I used the Blue/Green wire for the horn (without needing an additional relay), and the Light GREEN/ Red wire (in drivers running board) for the Door Pin and Dome Light Supervision.  The trunk pin in this car was solid green (with 2 silver dots I believe), and you can connect to the tach at the fuse box (blue wire in one of the connectors on the front side of the under dash fuse box, near the connectors for the parking lights and the trunk pin (actually all 3 of these wires run through the same harness and can be tapped into there (harness that runs from the top-front of the fuse box to the left side of the dash... has a 20 pin white connector taped to it) ) rather than having to do it under the hood.  Everything else was basically the same as the info here in the database.

The only thing I still have to do, is install the trunk release solenoid, and need to find some info about it (best install location, and info about the torque problem you mentioned).

Russ. 

you have to run wires into the drivers door for keyless. GREEN / WHITE-lock, GREEN/ red-unlock. i hate to do keyless on these cars because of the molex connector in the door. these wires terminate in the molex connector and if you have a gm deck harness around you can use two wires out if it to plug into the connector. sometimes its easier than drilling out the connector.

MECP Master Installer