the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

fixed: Valet 554R help please?


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
fooser 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 16, 2004 at 8:39 PM / IP Logged  

Can somebody please take a look at this and let me know if I’ve got it wired right, and help me with the ones I’m not sure about.

2003 GMC Sierra, 2 door, automatic, and no power door locks

DEI Valet 554R, GMDL-BP, and a power door lock kit

Primary harness H1

RED / white – (-)200mA ch2 validity output = not sure?
Red – (+)12 volt constant
Brown – Siren (+) output
Black – Chassis ground
Violet – (+) door trigger = all door trigger (+)gray/ black wire in drivers “A” pillar
Blue – optional sensor = not used
Green – (-) door trigger = since im using the +door trigger, will I need this?
BLACK/ White – (-)200 mA dome light supervision = not sure?
WHITE/ Blue – (-) remote start activation= not sure?
White – Selectable light flash= vehicle light switch (-)violet wire
Orange – (-)500 mA ground when armed output= not used, since the 554R has the starter kill built in, I think this is right?

Secondary Harness H2

Gray/Black – wait to start input = not used
Light GREEN/ Black – factory disarm/special accessory output= not used?
Violet/Black – Programmable channel 4 output= maybe a future upgrade like a electric tail gate lock?

Relay Satellite Key Switch Interface

All wires go to the relay block, so coming out of relay block
Red – (+)12 volt constant
Red – (+)12 volt constant
Pink – 1st and 2nd ignition relay turn on = not sure truck wiring diagram shows #1 ignition (pink) #2 ignition (white), and do I cut them or just tap into them?
Purple – (-)200 mA Starter relay turn on = does this go to the starter #1 wire (yellow),do I cut it or just tap into it?
Orange – accessory output – not sure, wiring diagram for truck has acc1 (orange wire) and acc2 (brown wire)

Remote Start Harness H3

Blue – (-)200 mA status/factory security rearm output = not used?
Blue/Black – (-)200 mA optional third ignition output = not used?
Gray – hood pin switch = self explanatory
Brown – (+) Brake switch shutdown = White wire at brake pedal switch
Violet/White – Tach input wire = instrument cluster white wire
BLACK/ White – (-) neutral safety switch = Where is the wire I tap into located on the truck and what color is it?

Door Lock Harness H4

Green – (-) lock (+) unlock output = I’ll have to use a DMM and test the wires coming out of the actuators
Blue – (-) unlock (+) Lock output = I’ll have to use a DMM and test the wires coming out of the actuators

That’s all the Harness’s, now I’m wondering how to wire the GMDL-BP into this? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jeff

p.s. Sorry about the previous post, like a dumba** I used word to format it, and couldnt figure out how to edit the post after I posted it.

auex 
Platinum - Posts: 5,041
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2002
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: December 16, 2004 at 10:45 PM / IP Logged  
PRIMARY HARNESS
RED / white – Used for acc outputs such as trunk pop.
Red – goes to constant +12V in ign harness
Brown – goes to the red wire off of the siren.
Black – ground
Violet – (+) door trigger = all door trigger (+)gray/ black wire in drivers “A” pillar
Blue – would go to hood/trunk pin or other sensor, don't worry about the hood as there is another input.
Green – No connection if you are using the + door trigger
BLACK/ White – If not sure then don't use this wire as you can cause damage to BCM if hooked up incorrectly.
WHITE/ Blue – This wire would go to a momentary switch if you wanted to use a button to activate the remote start without using the remote.
White – Selectable light flash= vehicle light switch (-)violet wire
Orange – If starter kill is built in then don't use. Can go to window module as well.
Secondary Harness H2
Gray/Black – Used for diesel engines.
Light GREEN/ Black – Not needed.
Violet/Black – Used for other acc outputs, can be programmed to validity, latched, latched with ign reset, or 30 sec timed.
Relay Satellite Key Switch Interface
All wires go to the relay block, so coming out of relay block
Red – (+)12 volt constant
Red – (+)12 volt constant
Pink AND pink/white–   Just tap into the cars wire for this. Pink goes to one of the ign wires and pink/white goes to the other.
Purple – This should actually be a + output and would go to the cars starter wire.
Orange – Hook this to one of the acc wires. You will need a relay to activate the 2 acc wire using the Blue/Black – (-)200 mA optional third ignition output.
Remote Start Harness H3
Blue – Not used
Blue/Black – Used to activate the second acc wire listed above
Gray – hood pin switch = self explanatory
Brown – (+) Brake switch shutdown = White wire at brake pedal switch
Violet/White – Tach input wire = instrument cluster white wire
BLACK/ White – If the truck is auto then ground this wire, if the truck is manual then you are on your own.
GMDL-BP is gonna be another post.
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
fooser 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 17, 2004 at 11:35 AM / IP Logged  

Auex,

Thanks for the help, but I do have a few questions I was wondering if you, or anybody else could answer

1.  The dome light has an auto-off function, so would I want to avoid using the all door trigger?  My guess is that this wire goes to the dome light, and if it auto's off wouldn’t that pose a problem?

"However, some vehicles have a dome lamp delay and/or an auto off feature. On many of these, you will want to locate the trigger lead(s) that will show either ground or (+) 12VDC when each door is opened, that is not affected by the dome lamp being on or off."

2.  Also I believe that each door has a separate trigger, so would I use diodes to isolate the triggers as quoted below?

"On the vehicles that have two separate (-) door triggers that are isolated from each other, most commonly found on newer GM vehicles, you will need to use two 1 amp blocking diodes for all doors to trigger the alarm. One trigger is for the driver's door and the second is for the rest of the doors. If you were just to connect to one of these and not both, one or more doors of the vehicle would not be protected by the alarm. If you were to tie each of these together without the blocking diodes, some features of the vehicle will no longer function properly."

    
     Quoted from https://www.the12volt.com/carsecurity/page5.asp

Again thanks for the help, I’m sure that I am probably reading a little much into this install, but it is my first one and I like to be thorough and do my research. That way I can do it right the first time and not screw anything up.

Jeff


Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Sunday, June 9, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer