Amp power cable and fuse

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jazzcustom131

Copper - Posts: 175

Joined: October 10, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: December 27, 2004 at 11:00 PM / IP Logged

I'm not questioning any one's knowledge, i'm just lettin you know that I do have an idea of what's goin on, dude. After your last explanation, I now see what you're saying, and you are indeed right. My bad on the misinterpretation, I was just confused with your original wording.

Greed is for amateurs.

Disorder,chaos,anarchy now THAT is fun!!

deocder

Copper - Posts: 138

Joined: December 27, 2004

Posted: February 16, 2005 at 4:42 PM / IP Logged

Good thread!

I always thought that the inline fuses were there to protect the equipment. But it makes much more sense that it is to protect the actual wire.

For my situation, I am running 2 gauge from the battery with a 225 A at the battery. This goes into a fused distribution block with 3 - 4 gauge outputs. Each fuse in the distribution block will be 150 A. I've read that its unnecessary to use a fused distribution block if the amps have their own fuses. But if one of the 4 gauge legs from the distribution block gets shorted, the 150 amp fuse will blow. If the block is not fused, the 4 guage wire will see 225 A before it burns (only rated for 150 A). How would this affect the other 4 gauge legs to the other amps?

haemphyst

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Joined: January 19, 2003

Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island

Posted: February 18, 2005 at 11:41 AM / IP Logged

deocder wrote:

How would this affect the other 4 gauge legs to the other amps?

I don't understand the question... There is VERY little chance that your amplifiers will all pull enough to blow the 225A primary fuse. While for the amp's safety it is indeed unnecessary to use a fused distro, anytime you switch from one power wire size to a smaller size, you need to fuse that junction, for safety's sake. If you HAVE the #2 to (4)#4 fused block, use it... If something happens to one leg off the distro, that leg will blow, while allowing the others to remail unaffected.

It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

stevdart

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Posted: February 18, 2005 at 4:09 PM / IP Logged

It's all about fire safety. We should bring Sparky or Smokey the Bear back into the car audio generation with a warning "Hey kids! Only YOU can prevent car fires."

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

sts15l7

Member - Posts: 31

Joined: February 18, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: February 18, 2005 at 11:09 PM / IP Logged

yeah...common misconception jazz

the fuse on the wire is there to protect the wire from catching fire, which could ultimately lead to a fire on ur car. im sure u know this; every wire has its own max current-draw capability. a 0 gauge wire would have a greater one, obviously, than a 8 gauge. so, u should fuse the wire based on the current draw that's safest for ur wire gauge size. im doing an upgrade on my alternator wire (my alternator is 180A), and the fuse they suggested i use was 250A. it just shows that the fuse is there for the wire, not the appliances getting power from there

-mir

sts15l7

Member - Posts: 31

Joined: February 18, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: February 18, 2005 at 11:41 PM / IP Logged

deocder:

i didnt understand ur question. however, i can tell u that whatever u read about not using a fused distro block if the amps have their own fuses is WRONG. ur thinking is correct: if one of the 4 gauge shorts on a non-fused distro block, there is no fuse to protect it. the 225A fuse up front will not burn, because that wire would be able to handle the current draw. however, the 4 gauge that does short might end up catching on fire, in which case itll destroy ur amp. just remember that when changing wire sizes, u must always, ALWAYS fuse...

-mir

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Amp power cable and fuse

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