2004 Murano security wiring

I have a couple of questins that I am hoping someone can answer. I just installed an autostart 2 way RS into my Murano.  It works fine, however I am not sure about a couple of things.

1. Do I need a 2nd starter(crank) wire connected?  I know that it is the BLACK / YELLOW wire, and I think that it bypasses the immobilizer upon cold starts, but it's not clear.  So far it has worked fine using a universal bypass for the transponder, but it hasn,t been below about  -6 or so.

2. Do I need to connect a 2nd accessory wire?  I'm using the WHITE/ blue wire and all of my accessories seem to work, but on the spec sheet it shows a 2nd accessory as being red.  It isn't yet connected.  What does it power?

I'm questioning this because my RS only has one output for each function.  It has one extra output that I can select either crank/accessory/or ignition.  I'm not sure if I need to use it and if so for which one.  I could also relay isolate one of the accessories or crank wires etc.  Any advise?

3. What is the correct way of turning off the autolight feature after the run time expires.  I am using the rearm of my autostart pulsing my drivers door pin.  I must press the lock button on the remote after the run time to turn them off.  Although the autostart is supposed to rearm after the run time expires it doesn't work just right.  Also after pressing the lock button on the key fob, the interior light will come on and stay on for about 10 seconds.  If I push the lock button a second time then they will fade out right away.   Should I be pulsing the passenger or other door pin in order to shut off my autolights.  The drivers pin seems to keep the interior lights on for longer than the other doors.

4.  Is there a way to or is it necessary to tie into the memory seats.  If I arm/disarm the alarm, the momory seats work fine when you put the key into the ignition.  If I remote start the Murano, then upon getting in you need to push the button on the door for the seat to move.

5. Finally, Is it best to diode isolate all entry points separate, or is there an easier way.  And are these colours correct?

LF-Lt blue - pin 62 (or pin 7 of  15 pin white connector)

LR-RED / white - pin 63 (or pin 8 (red) of 15 pin black connector)

RF-RED / green - pin 12                     "

RR-RED / white - pin 13                     "

Trunk-PURPLE / white pin 3 of 15 pin white connector

That would be all for now.  Thanks in advance.  BTW this is great forum!!

Hi, I just installed one on a murano the other day... here is some tips...

yes connect the second start

no you DONT have to connect the second acc. wire, but i HIGHLY recommend it, if you dont connect it the radio and other stuff does not power up but w/ the murano the heat comes on but you cant adjust it wire it is remote started plus its always best to start it as the car would normally start.

you disarm and arm wires are in the drivers door, i think the colors are red and blue, i had a problem w/ the pulse being too long and wanting to roll the window down, so i had to oduble pulse a 175ms unlock pulse to get it to just unlock.

best of luck, dont mess anything up.

Break the auto light wire with a relay, or give it a (-)neg pulse after run time.  With Astroflex you have all of these programable outputs to use....If you don't, it will be easier to use a relay and your ground while running output. The wire is at the BCM on a 40  pin connecter its GREEN/ YELLOW.  

Break the wire with a relay as follows 

87a gets the bcm side of the wire

30 gets the switch side of the wire

86 gets 12volts fused

85 gets your ground while running out put from the alarm unit

You guys are awesome!!!  I can't believe the feedback and so quick.

I have basically installed the RS like extreme1 has said using the empty pins on the 40 pin connector.  That part works flawlessly.  The second crank wire still needs to be connected...Thanks.  Not a problem .  On my Murano, the radio comes on with the RS as well as what seems to be all of the other accessories.  Not sure on the ability to change heat settings, but that is not a concern as long as it comes on to the setting that I left it at before I shut off the car.  I originally saw the thread from extreme1 about using pin 13 & 14 ...pretty trick, although I still have to get into the doors for window options.  Looks kind of tricky to get to without drilling a hole on either side and using grommets.  Any suggestions on that.

As far as using a relay to break the autolight feature, this is how I originally tried to set it up.  I posted somewhere else about this,  but this is what happened. 

Start car with remote.  Only DRL come on

If runtime expires or you cancel with remote, DRL go out instantaneously and then both the headlights as well as DRL come back on.  I wired exactly as KarTuneMan said.  I used the GREEN/ YELLOW in the 40 pin connector on the BCM.  So for now I am sending a rearm (-)pulse to the lt blue wire drivers door pin.  It seems to work okay,  but like I say the interior lights come on for about 10 seconds everytime I pulse that wire.

With the stock keyfob the lights would dim out as soon as you pushed the lock button.  This is how my autostart remote worked until I pulsed the driver's door pin in order to turn off my autolight feature.  I am not worried about it so to speak, but if there was another way to get around this, then I would do it.

If I press the lock button on the keyfob a second time  the interior lights fade out instantly.  This is not a big deal, but I thought that I would ask how others are wiring them.  Maybe my pulse it too long.  The book says that the pulse goes to ground 1/2 sec before the lock pulse and goes out 1/8 second after the lock pulse.