3 ohm load on a 2 ohm stable stereo

I have an amp that is 2 ohm stable STEREO. From what i have read, you cannot run a 2 ohm mono load, as each channel "sees" half of the resistance. So does this mean that I cannot run a dual 6 ohm voice coil sub parrallel bridged? If so, would my only other option be to run it at 12 ohms? Or could i hook up each voice coil to a channel?

your amp is 2 ohm stable, but it can play 3 ohms as well. It will play it also with a lesser amount of distortion that it would at 2 ohms. (That is assuming that besides being 2 ohm stable you can run the amp at 4 ohms)..."I don't play games. I play Nakamichi and that for real yo" - Probably some japanese kid said this in the early 80's trying to sell stereo out of his trunk lol.

I know, but from what I have been told, a 2 ohm stable stereo amp, cannot push a 2ohm load mono, because each channel sees half the load. Is this true? If so, if i bridged the 3 ohm load, would this not show a 1.5 ohm load to each channel which is below the 2 ohm stable floor? Is there any other option other than running the DVC 6 ohm sub at 12 ohms?

Dual 6 ohm voice coils in parallel is 3 ohms, bridged to the amp is 1.5 ohms per channel. it is POSSIBLE your amp MAY run this load, but I would not push it. 1.5 ohm is outside the safe operating area of that amp... uthink thinks... But wait, is it a Nakamichi?It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

And what would happen if i ran the 3 ohm load, would the amp just get really hot?

you can fry the amp running it under the ohm load its supposed to go.  but from what i have seen... 4 ohm speakers can be from 3 to 5 ohm when tested with a meter.  run the voice coils paralell and test with a meter for resitance.  if it is over 3, then in my opinion go for it but i keep the gain down to a reasonable level.  i wouldnt worry about it.  by the way, when you test the speaker for resistance, dont have it upsidedown or any other way but facaing up or out, cuz it can give an innaccurate readout.  if you start to blow fuses or the amp stops from getting hot, then rewire it or hook it up the other way.  or get a different amp.  i just noticed that it was a power acoustic so be careful.  but their amps arent as bad as people think from what i have seen.  i have installed several PA amps with no prob.  In my experience, i have troubleshot more high end systems because of faulty equipment than i have power akoustik stuff.  Be careful with their subs though do not put them in anything with a port cuz it WILL get damaged.  other than that, i guess its time to shut up.

It might, it might not run at all, it might fry the amp... seeing as it is a Power Acoustik amp, prolly any combination of the above... Not the greatest of gear - along the lines of Audiobahn... Otherwise, your option is 6 ohms per channel, wire in series and bridged OR run one channel to each voice coil and leave the amp in stereo. Same difference. Your amp would make a little more than half it's 4 ohm rating i.e. rated 400 wpc @ 4 ohms, it would now make probably 300 wpc @ 6 ohms. I don't know that amp, so look it up in you owners' manual.      ::::EDIT::::: DO NOT USE A DC RESISTANCE AS A BASIS FOR DETERMINING IF A LOAD IS SAFE FOR AN AMPLIFIER! A speaker is a complex load, and it WILL NOT behave the same in operation. audifive, that is bad information, and potentially dangerous to someone ELSE's gear.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."