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Amperage Draw when engine is off?


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bradleonard 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 12, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 02, 2005 at 7:01 PM / IP Logged  

I have a 99 Nissan Frontier that I have installed a keyless entry with a starter kill relay, two window rollup modules and an LED scanner. I have had problems with the battery dying overnight. Turns it out it was an Exide battery which according to some knowledgeable electrical guys, aren't very good batteries. Anyways, I measured the current draw at 0.29 amps when the engine is off and the doors are locked with the Keyless Entry. Does this seem like an unusual amount of current flow, or does this sound about average for the type of system. Someone please let me know..

werd
its_radio_shop 
Copper - Posts: 76
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 03, 2005 at 8:26 AM / IP Logged  

.29 amps is too high. If I had to guess I would say your starter kill relay isnt wired correctly and is being powered when you press the lock button. A typical relay thats used for starter interupt uses about .20-.25 amps when energized. If you subtract that amount from your .29 obviously that would leave you with around .04 - .09 of draw which is about where your vehicle should normally be. If your starter relay has a negative trigger wire from the keyless entry and you have the other side of the coil going to a constant +12v then try switching the 12v wire to a source that is +12v only when key is in "run" and "start" position.

OmarR 
Copper - Posts: 162
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 02, 2003
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 04, 2005 at 1:35 AM / IP Logged  

I know nothing about the 99 Frontier, but some cars have BCM's or other components that may stay active until the car has been shut down for at least a good 20-30 mins. If this is the case, when you are working with any door  or hood open, press in the pin switches with something, and wait a good amount of time. This will trick the car into going to "sleep". Then do your multimeter tests.

How are you conducting your tests?

bradleonard 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 12, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 06, 2005 at 3:50 AM / IP Logged  

I used a cheapo craftsman multi-meter that luckily was able to measure DC current. I am not sure how accurate it was, but I measured it across the postive terminal on the battery. This meter requires that you interrupt the circuit to make the measurement. I would like to find a more reliable and accurate Fluke meter that can measure DC current with a clamp on style setup. Anybody know any models that do that?

werd
bradleonard 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 12, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2005 at 2:20 AM / IP Logged  

What is the current draw of a standard relay?

werd
bradleonard 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 12, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2005 at 3:41 AM / IP Logged  

Here is another question regarding the starter interrupt circuit. I have a Crimstopper CS-865RKE. Its been over a year since I installed this so its a little bit foggy, but according the diagram for that model, it is putting out a negative output when the system is "armed" therefore the starter interrupt relay is powered in the armed state. The ignition wire is connected the the 30 and 85A terminals of the relay, so basically the starter is active when the relays is at rest, but when the relay is powered during the "armed" state the starter circuit is disabled. Does anyone know any way to reverse this so that the relay is not sitting there pulling current whenever the system is ARMED?

Thanks

Brad

werd
misterjimbo 
Silver - Posts: 535
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2003
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: March 24, 2005 at 9:43 AM / IP Logged  
it is not drawing anything in that state. it is hooked up to ign. power, so the relay does not become energized until the key is in the on position.  when it sees ignition the relay opens.
shoelesscraig 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2004
Posted: March 24, 2005 at 10:38 AM / IP Logged  
As far as the clamps are concerned, Craftsman makes a clamp that will do AC & DC amperage for $50.  If you want a Fluke, their clamps start at $100, the problem with that is that the $100 Fluke only does AC amperage.  If you want a Fluke that will do DC amperage (clamp style), their cheapest one is $230 new.  I know b/c I've been wanting one, and I'll only buy Fluke (I've done my research).  Can't beat a Fluke though, you pay more at first, but they last a lifetime.

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