Relay Wiring for Trunk Release

I'm in the planning state writing down all the connections to install a CrimeStopper RS9000 IV remote start into a 1999 Ford Crown Vic police car.

According to the wiring diagram for this vehicle https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1999&make=Ford&model=Crown%20Victoria&ID=17765&type=Alarm

The Trunk release is the Purple / YELLOW (+) wire in the three wire bundle in the drivers kick panel.

Can someone confirm if my connections are correct:

• Aux output from remote start (-) to 86  (coil) on relay
• 85 (coil) and 30 (common) to Purple / YELLOW + trunk release wire
• 87 (n/o) to ground side of trunk button
• 87a not used

Is this correct?  Thanks.

if the purple / YELLOW wire is switched (+) to activate the trunk release solenoid, it's not going to be a source of constant 12V+.  Here's how your relay should be hooked up:

85, 87- constant 12V+

86- auxiliary (-) output from alarm

30- (+) output to trunk release wire

87a- not used

Thanks for the input.  I'll have to check the wiring in the car but if I understand this right 85 and 87 would be connected before the switch (which should be constant 12V but I'll have to check).  30 would be the wire on the other side of the switch.  In effect the relay would be bypassing (or overriding) the switch.  Excuse my terminolgy.  I obviously need assistance :-).  I just want to install this myself to learn.

It is good to know that 30 is commonly used for output.  Are there other "common practices" when working with relays (inputs/outputs).  I would like to do this as logically as possible.  Thanks again. 

The feed to the trunk-release very likely IS a good, strong, fused source of constant 12-volt power.......but from an installer's point of view, it's a waste of time to deal with it. 

When prepping the unit on your workbench, just grab all of your wires that will need constant power, and tie them into the main (already fused) wire that goes into the brain of your alarm.  By the time you're carrying the unit to your car for installation, you should have just one constant-power wire to hook up.  (Exception:  Many remote starters have two or more constant-power wires, so the heavy load can be divided up between different parts of the car's factory wiring.  If your car has more than one heavy-gauge constant-power wire at the ignition switch, try to make use of both of them.)

As far as why 87 is commonly used as the input, not 30:  If you study the relay, you'll notice that when it's at rest, 30 and 87a are connected.  And in your case, you're going to let 87a go unused.  Suppose you use 30 as the input......and 87a accidentally shorts out to something....you'll have a blown fuse or maybe worse.  If you use 87 as the input, when the relay is at rest, it will be connected to absolutely nothing.

As far as 85 and 86:  Like Karl said, some of the relays that come with a pre-wired socket also have a diode jumpered across 85 and 86; this is mainly on starter kill relays.  So unless the diode is there, it doesn't matter which way you do 85 and 86........but if you'll be installing a lot, it would be a good habit to ALWAYS do 85-to-ground and 86-to-positive.  This way, if there's a diode but you didn't notice it because you were in a hurry or something, the device will still work properly anyway.