RS on 2003 F250 Diesel

Knucklehead,

This was a frustrating problem and thank God I was able to fix it yesterday and return the truck to the customer. As for fuse #35, I had checked it by pulling it and ohming it out, then by checking for +12 on each side while it was inserted and everything looked fine. Then I took another good 10A fuse and swapped it and the thing still wouldn't work. By Saturday night I was desperate and found a website, http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann, and emailed him with my problem. He was very helpful and sent me some of the schematics for the instrument cluster, which I believed was the problem. The obvious next thing to check was the power to the instrument cluster at the connector, so I remove the instrument cluster and checked it. It was good, and I again was stumped. After thinking for a few minutes, I put it back together. Then I went to check something else and when I put the key in, miraculously, it came back on. I have no clue what caused it or what fixed it, I'm just happy its fixed.

I did find the GPCM by tracing the wires from the battery, it is mounted to the pass side valve cover, like you said, but I couldn't find a wire that was hot and then turned off for the wait to start light.

I also couldn't find the VSM, which is where Directtech says to find the lock wires. I looked to the right of the acc pedal above the tranny hump, but there is nothing there. I even pulled that half of the underside dash apart and still didn't see any module. I then traced the wires coming from the door into the kick panel and along the rail. The colors at the switch matched the wire table, so I proceded to connect them using the 5wire method. This didn't work and after probing the wire I am confused. Normally you cut the wire, in this case the lock wire, and probe both ends, one should be grounded through the switch and the other should be open at the actuator. In this case both ends showed ground and when I pushed the lock switch neither end showed +12, but if I pushed the unlock switch the end I thought went to the motor went +12. I probed the wires at the switch and they act correctly. How and where did you make the lock connections?

On another topic, the guy asked if I would try to find and drain the water seperator. He claims that he can't find it and that his mechanic can't find it either. I never got to look for it, with my other issues, but do you know where it is? I can make some extra $ if I fix it for him. Thanks.

Thanks for the help.

I was just checking my email and the Dieselman sent me the schematics for both the glow plugs and doors. Now I understand the GPCM. The PCM sends all the gauge info on a central data bus and theres no way to tap into that. The crimestopper units that I install have a timer built in for the glow plugs, but thats an open loop method and I prefer to have the feedback from the light, but oh well.

The truck doesn't have RKE, which explains why I can't find the VSM. The schematic looks like it is definitely reverse polarity, ground at rest and hot when switched. I didn't blow any fuses, so I'm sure I made the connections right. Perhaps I just have a bad relay module. I've been using the DEI 555L. I'll have to try it again this weekend and see.

I didn't get to look for the HFCM, but what you stated is pretty much what I remember reading in the manual. Why he can't find it is beyond me, but if he wants to pay me for something that sound so simple I won't complain.

knucklehead wrote: I'm not positive, but off the top of my head isn't the 555L a Passlock bypass module? If the truck you're going to drain the HFCM on is a 4x4 and not lifted, it is not going to be fun. The front driveshaft blocks the 6mm hex drain bolt. If it's a 2wd you should be okay. Either way I hope you like the smell of diesel, you'll be wearing it for a while. It's a messy job.

Your right, I meant the 451M. I had 555l on my brain because I just ordered one of those for my next job.

Is it that messy to just drain the water off? The truck is the 4x4, and I think factory height which is pretty high to begin with. Do you think I should loosen or remove the front shaft first?

The light is on in the dash, and he said it had been for some time. He said that the first time it came on he took it to the dealer and was pissed at how much they charged him. Then when it came on again he tried to do himself and couldn't find it. Then found a mechanic friend and he couldn't find it either. Then when I picked up his truck to install the RS and asked about it he told me the whole story and said that if I could get the light off he would pay me extra for it. Don't know where he gets his fuel from, but if I do find water in there I'll recommend he find a new gas station. If there's no water in there, then he'll have to get the dealer to correct it. If I remember right, the manual also mentioned replacing the filter at the HFCM and the filter on the block. Do you think I should change the filter too?