Sound dampening

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ippy98

Member - Posts: 25

Joined: January 23, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: February 18, 2005 at 11:34 AM / IP Logged

I was only able to buy so much sound dampening. I figured I have enough to either do one layer over the entire car - (trunk, 4drs, and floors) or i can do double layers in the trunk and doors and none in the floor. Which would probably be the more suggested method?

Thanks!

haemphyst

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Joined: January 19, 2003

Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island

Posted: February 18, 2005 at 11:44 AM / IP Logged

You should apply the most damping where you will need it most. The floor and roof were the last places I went with damping. Doors, door panels, rear deck, and trunk lid are probably your priorities. Apply one layer to each of these places, reserve some, listen to it for a while, add more if necessary, THEN apply the left-overs to the remaining places in the car.

It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Poormanq45

Silver - Posts: 597

Joined: October 27, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: February 18, 2005 at 11:56 AM / IP Logged

Well, The roof is very often overlooked when sound deading, but it is a very important thing.

I recommend splitting the layers up. I mean, do 2 layers in some spots, and one layer in others. That way you atleast get some material in most places. So that later on you can put more layers on if the need arises.

ippy98

Member - Posts: 25

Joined: January 23, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: February 18, 2005 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged

haemphyst wrote:

You mentioned doors and door panels, should i put a layer on the door itself, and also on the inside of the plastic panel?

haemphyst

Platinum - Posts: 5,054

Joined: January 19, 2003

Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island

Posted: February 19, 2005 at 9:29 AM / IP Logged

Damping should be applied ANYWHERE you could get a vibration. I applied to both inside and outside door skin, AND a generous helping to the inside of the door panel itself. Doors allow as much noise into the car as anything, and you probably couldn't "overdamp" them.

It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

stevdart

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Joined: January 24, 2004

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Posted: February 19, 2005 at 8:37 PM / IP Logged

^^^^Agreed. Damp both skins and the midbass will be drastically improved.

deocder

Copper - Posts: 138

Joined: December 27, 2004

Posted: February 20, 2005 at 12:13 AM / IP Logged

Just for clarity on the doors. There is the outside panel, which is the backside of metal on the outside of the door (I thought this was the skin), then there is the area that the interior molding attaches to.

"I applied to both inside and outside door skin, AND a generous helping to the inside of the door panel itself."

So does this mean to apply it to the inside of the outer metal (the door panel itself), the part where the interior molding attaches to on both sides (inside and outside door skin)?

stevdart

Platinum - Posts: 5,816

Joined: January 24, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: February 20, 2005 at 1:17 AM / IP Logged

I didn't quite get what that quote meant either, but applying to just one side of any sheet metal will damp the metal, although two layers (or more) can be applied (on top of the last layer). The outer skin is reachable through the cutouts in the panel. Cut pieces that are small enough to work through those cutouts and be reasonably easy to apply. Then cover the panel facing the interior of the car and seal it up, including those cutouts that you reached through earlier. This panel is the panel that the door speaker mounts to.

If the midbass is in a pod... not in the door... it's a judgement call of what or how much to damp on the doors. You're really only damping for 100-120 Hz and below.

deocder

Copper - Posts: 138

Joined: December 27, 2004

Posted: February 20, 2005 at 9:03 AM / IP Logged

Okay, that makes sense. However, if I seal as you describe, by applying the mat over the cutouts and everywhere else, that will essentially approach an enclosure. But what if the speakers are designed for infinite baffle? Technically it doesn't really seal the door because there are drain holes at the bottom, the latches, etc. I'm just affraid that the bass will become sloppy. The parameters provided with my a/d/s components are

Fs = 78.08 Hz

Re = 3.85 ohms

Res= 28.55 ohms

Qms=5.70

Qes=0.77

Qts=0.68

Vas=5.61 L

Xmax=2.5 mm

I am wondering if I should build an enclosure in the door specifically for these parameters. The driver is for dedicated mid-bass, 70-350 Hz. Also, I am attempting to maximize sound quality.

stevdart

Platinum - Posts: 5,816

Joined: January 24, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: February 20, 2005 at 9:41 AM / IP Logged

Generally speaking, the sealing of the panel holes is for noise control. There is an interior panel that pops onto the door panel and it will often vibrate if strong midbass freqs are expelled through those panel holes. The door cavity itself is the infinite baffle enclosure. You are not going to completely seal it, as that is not possible considering the weep holes and the slot for the window movement. And by fabricating an enclosure within the enclosure, you will only cut down on the air space that the driver was intended to have, so I wouldn't make it.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

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