2 dvc 6 ohm and which amp?

audiobahn A8001D

300watts @ 4ohm

500watts @ 2 ohms

800watts @1 ohms

well i dont know much about that amp but looks solid includes 2 cooling fans. but so pricey

Correcting jeff,  wiring each coil in parallel will present a total impedence of 1.5 Ohms...  Wiring the subs in series/parallel (2 coils on single woofer wired in series, and in parallel to the other woofer) config would result in a 6 Ohm load, and a series wiring config would result in a 24 Ohm load.  Now obviously your best bet would be to use a parallel wiring configuration.  Now if it were me, I'd use a  JL Audio amp...  their amps put out the same amount of power between 1.5 to 4 ohms and between 10 and 14V (Gotta love the regulated power supply)...  A 500/1 would do the job...  I really wouldn't recommend an audiobahn or any other no-name amp just because they are so cheaply designed and manufactured...  I know people have their preferences, but our store doesn't even put crap like that on the shelf.  Our lowest line amplifier is a kenwood or eclipse, but we mainly sell Alpine, Phoenix Gold, JL Audio and MTX...  Do yourself a favor and check out what kind of damping factor that amp would have at 1.5 Ohms for one (Just to make sure it's not going to sound like crap like most cheap class D's do), and also see what voltage they test at... Probably not 12.5V huh?  Take into consideration that a voltage drop would severly affect the amplifier's output (And it will unless you have a sufficient charging system).  Also, it is common knowledge that for every 10 amps an amplifier draws the MOST power it is going to produce is 100 watts (If it is effecient), so check out the fuse on the side of it...  Does it have a 30 amp fuse and say it puts out 600W RMS??  Yeah, whatever!  Also, 2 cooling fans don't make much of a difference without proper heat dissipation.  Look at the heat sink... does it do a good job of dissipating heat, or storing it?  If the amp runs hot, it will usually start clipping sooner than it should...  When you take all of this into account, you will realize that you actually pay more $$$ per watt of true continuous power for a inferior amplifier than you would for one that puts out true, clean power and not a whole lotta sqaure waves, plus you have the benefit of great SQ (that's why you bought those JL's in the first place, right?) 

-Jessie

Earmark Car Audio - The Leader Loud and Clear

hey jellynutz

i agree with you completely. i had the jl audio 500/1 in mind. but if my speakers are rated at 300 each. will i be underpowering my speakers? i want to use the full potential of my speakers. and i reconsidered the jl 500./1 because some of my friends said that that amp isn't good enough.

The JL 500/1 really puts out 600w continuous.  When I was at a JL Audio training seminar last month on of the JL reps said they were underrated by 100w RMS.  Your friends obviously don't know what they are talking about, take it from me!  This would be your best bet...

Hey, I've got 2 10W6's in a bandpass powered by a JL 500/1.  The amp is PLENTY powerfull enough.  You said something about $300 being too expensive.  You are going to have a hard time finding a good amp with enough power for your W6's for under $300.  Don't skimp on the amp.  It is an INTEGRAL part of the system.