88 Dodge Dynasty doorlocks

I just did an alarm with keyless entry on an 88 dodge dynasty. Every wiring guide I've seen for this car says they are negative reversal and to find the lock and unlock wires in the drivers kick panel. I found them high in the kick panel and they tested ground at rest and positive when I hit the lock switch. But they continued to rest at ground even after I cut the wires. This confused me a bit, But I continued to wire up the relays. When I triggered the relays, the fuse blew, same after 3 tries. I double checked all my connections and gave up. I tried the same wires in the door jamb boot. same problem, the wires still rested at ground even after being cut. I then tapped into the same wires, but inside the door right at the switch.(Same color and guage and tested the same) Except here the wires no longer rested at ground after I cut the wires. I wired up the releys inside the dorr and all is fine and dandy. But why couldn't I tap in at the kick panel? Why were both ends of the wires still resting at ground(switch side and actuator side)? Anybody knows whats going on here?

If the 1988 Dodge Dynasty is equipped with factory keyless remote, you have a positive polarity system other wise it will be a reverse polarity system. Reading from your post it sounds like you have the reverse polarity system (five wire system). DEI wire diagram indicat's the lock is positive and unlock is 5 wire. From experience I don't ever remember doing either one of the above I mention. I've always encounter the five wire system. Let me explain and hopefully at the end of it all you will be a little clearer. Basically, with a reverse polarity system there are no relays. The switches themselves supply the positive voltage directly to the door lock acutators, but more importantly they also provide a return ground path.      The wires in the system rest at ground, which means that until the swithes are operated, both wires are grounded, and these wire must be cut to make the connections. I don't know if you got a chance to take a long look at the wire behind the switches. Normally you will have five wires . One will be a constant 12+, regardless of the switch position. Two wires will be grounded regarless of the switch positon. Of the two remaining wires, one will show +12V when the switch is push to Lock and the other will show +12V on the Unlock. You mention that you were shorting out the fuse. I think you were probably not configuring the relays correctly to correspond to the wires on the switch side and the motor side. Below is the wire on which you have to follow to get the keyless entry to work. It's imperative that you have the wiring corretly going to the correct side. Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Thats EXACTLY how I wired it up but it kept popping the fuse on my hot wire going to 86 and 87. And yes, I double checked the switch and motor sides to make sure I had them right. And after I cut the wires, bothe the switch side and the motor side were still grounded. But for some reason it worked when I tapped in inside the door DIRECTLY behind the switch. After I cut the wires there, only the switch side was grounded. That explains why it worked tapping in right there, but why were both sides grounded further up? As I stated before, I tried tapping in in the kick panel, and again in the rubber door jamb boot. Thats why I'm confused. Is there something between the switch and the end where is passes thru the door jamb? I didnt see anything there.

"Is there something between the switch and the end where is passes thru the door jamb?" It probably a secondary switch between there. Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.