Car won’t start

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radkonn

Copper - Posts: 73

Joined: January 21, 2005

Posted: March 19, 2005 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged

The starter output wire is to start your car when it is remote started. Don't worry about hooking it up in series with the neutral safety switch. You can use H10/3 BLACK/ white wire from 20 pin connector this can go to your neutral switch or a toggle switch.

Here is how you can hook up your starter disable relay for your car.

86 H10/20 (orange) wire from alarm goes to white wire relay.

85 red wire from relay goes to BLACK/ White wire at ignition harness in your corolla. You don't want to use a constant 12v sourse for your starter disable relay because it will drain you battery everytime you arm your alarm. If you hook it up to the ignition 12v like I suggest. the relay will only pull in if someone tries to start your car with the alarm armed.

30 Yellow wire from relay goes to red wire ignition harness (you have to cut the red wire at ignition harness) hook up the yellow wire to the red wire at ignition harness. (side that goes to the ignition switch)

87a Purple wire from your relay goes to the other side of the red starter wire you cut in your harness (going to start solenoid) AND your H1/1 (violet) wire from your alarm.

I hope this helps.

Also, to get out of test mode while you are testing your door triggers and shock sensor just press the lock button. To reset the alarm to factory settings. Turn your ignition on and off 3 times and stay in the off position. Press the valet switch 12 times and HOLD it on the 12th press. You will hear six chirps with one long chirp. Press and hold the lock and trunk button and the same time for six seconds. You will hear six chirps and three longs chirps. You have now reset A, B, and C it the programming. Press the trunk button and then hold the lock and trunk button at the same time for six seconds to reset your D and E programming.

I didn't read all the replies, so this info may not be necessary.

radkonn

Copper - Posts: 73

Joined: January 21, 2005

Posted: March 19, 2005 at 4:36 PM / IP Logged

Also, if you connect your starter output wire to your factory neutral switch like in the diagram and the switch is a negative switch, it wil cause a direct short and blow the fuse. You should wire it like I suggested. Your car more than likely won't start in gear, unless you have a manual transmission. Therefore, you can just hook up a toggle switch, or if your worried about it, hook up the wire for the toggle switch to the side of the neutral saftey switch that shows ground when in neutral. You can also do both, but I wouldn't wire like the diagram states.

tk34

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: January 07, 2005

Location: Canada

Posted: March 19, 2005 at 10:04 PM / IP Logged

Thanks, I couldn't get that to work was because the ignition cylinder couldn't sense which position the key was in I think because of the blown fuse. As soon as I replaced the fuse I tried again and it came out of test mode.

The BLACK/ white wire for remote start enable toggle switch input and neutral safety switch input is H5/3 on my alarm. I currently have this wire connected to ground with a toggle switch, so I can enable/disable remote start.

Should I take it off ground and connect it to the wire going to the starter behind H1/1(starter output) wire? I haven't been able to actually locate the neutral safety switch I just assumed it came somewhere before the starter along the red wire from the ignition harness.

Also I want to add, the second time the fuse blew, I could remote start, just not key start, and when I pressed the brake with the key in, it would shut off the car. So it couldn't sense which key position I was in I think. I just called it the starter fuse I don't know what it's called, it seems to be connected to other things, I still received 12v+ from the constant wires, but none at the starter wire during crank, yet I could crank the engine with my remote, weird.......

radkonn

Copper - Posts: 73

Joined: January 21, 2005

Posted: March 19, 2005 at 10:55 PM / IP Logged

The reason you could start it using the remote start and not the key is because the fuse probably blew to the starter. The starter wire will still get 12v when you remote start it because you are using an alternative power source to power your alarm, or I should say an alternative fuse is hooked up to that lead. If you have an automatic, I don't think your car will start out of gear. You probably can't even remove the key while the vehicle is in gear, so you can just leave it on the toggle switch and don't worry about the neutral switch (you should test the vehicle and see if it will start in gear). The car is suppose to shut off when you hit the brake while remote started; it is a safety feature. Don't do what you suggested about moving the wire to H1/1; I would just leave it on the toggle. Your H5/3 wire needs to see ground for you to be able to remote start the vehicle, and you H1/1 wire sends a +12 volts during remote start. Did you wire the starter disable back in like I suggested?

tk34

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: January 07, 2005

Location: Canada

Posted: March 19, 2005 at 11:32 PM / IP Logged

I am about to, but just wanted to make sure where the h5/3 wire was supposed to go before I did. So that stays where it is then, and I just install the relay how you said. I still don't understand why the fuse blew though, should it be ok after I put the relay back?

JWorm

Platinum - Posts: 2,208

Joined: December 11, 2002

Location: New Hampshire, United States

Posted: March 20, 2005 at 12:05 PM / IP Logged

You car has two constant wires going to the ignition switch. A White wire fused at 25 amps and a black wire fused at 15 amps. If you put one of the high current input wires from the remote start to the black wire you will blow the fuse fairly often.

I'm not familiar with the Autopage 850. How many wires from it get hooked up to constant power and what are the fuse ratings on each?

tk34

Member - Posts: 13

Joined: January 07, 2005

Location: Canada

Posted: March 20, 2005 at 7:51 PM / IP Logged

I have 3 wires going to the white 25A wire from the alarm with 20A, 20A, and 3A fuse. To the black wire I have power lock relays and trunk release relay hooked up. I JUST discovered a mistake in my wiring for the power lock relays so that just might be it!! Should it be ok to connect the relays to the black constant wire? And should I fuse any of the wires from my relays?

Getting kind off the topic of my alarm now, but for the locks, I've added actuators and have wired it up to the relays. Is there a way to add a master switch to it? I currently have the relays for power locks connected like this:

lock relay: 30-actuator, 85-alarm, 86 and 87-constant 12v(black wire), and 87a-ground

unlock relay: 30-actuator, 86-alarm, 85 and 87 constant 12v(black wire), and 87a-ground

Thanks, I've tackled a big project, with the remote start alarm, power locks, and power trunk release and I am just about done, just want to make sure everything is done right. Thanks again!

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Car won’t start

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