?s on Mobile TV installation

First of all, I want to say how impressed I am at the great advice I've seen at this forum.

I bought a roof mount tv, dvd, tv tuner, fm modulator & film antenna from a company on ebay.  I thought somehow it would all plug into the cigarette lighter.  But, of course, everything has the red and black power leads.  I kinda blew my holiday budget on the stuff and can't swing the $200 profession install fee.

I have tons of computer and video experience, but nothing auto-related.  My vehicle is a '95 Plymouth Voyager.

I guess my major questions are:

1. Where do I find the igition wires I am supposed to eventually wire all this stuff to?

2. Will I be able to tie all of this stuff to these wires and not blow fuses?

3. How do I snake the cables to where I am going?

If someone knew the answers to these questions, I could at least get started.  I know there are a lot of newbie questions on here, and I apologize, but if anyone had any hints, I would be very greatful. (so would three kids and the wifey)!

• The ignition wire is a DARK BLUE wire found at the ignition switch harness under the driverside dash ( the wires running from the key cylinder ). You can also probe for a switched ignition wire at the fuse box.
• If you grab the DARK BLUE wire from the ignition harness the load from the video accessories will not overload the wire.
• Here is a post for snaking wires for the roof mount TV: ( click on this link here---> ) another overhead console help
• HINT: Tell your wife that you love her and buy her something she likes and some flowers before you start this project. You will likely be in the grage for about 2- 3 days if this is your first time doing this and you'll thank me later for this hint

You do not need the Ignition wires, unless you want it to turn on and off with the ignition key.  Most fuse blocks have a few EMPTY spaces in them, for options you did not get with the car.  I used one of those with a 35amp fuse to power my Amplifier in the trunk, so I did not have to go through the firewall.  You can check for power at any of those blank locations with a Volt Meter, and go from there.   RED is B+ and black is ground, so any power source will work. 

I have run wires through the moldings, which is pretty easy.  All depends how your interior is configured. 

Fuse box is for low power devices?  Well my god, how much power are those devices going to require?   Not much more than  BOTH your headlamps, I'll tell you that much.  Your "Ignition wire" does not allow for much more than a 30amp draw either, so what's the difference if you tap an empty fuse space for your own device? 

I have been doing this stuff for years.  If you want to do it absolutely RIGHT, then you tap the Positive terminal of the battery and run your own, NEW line wiht a fuse.  Who want's all that work?  Check out a nice new Chevy venture van with all the Video toys, and I guarentee you there is no more than a 30amp fuse  for them.  The tap to the ignition only trips a relay on so you can use the toys when the key is on.  It isn't like installing a 400+watt amplifier with a 10 guage wire, we're talking 1AMP devices here.  IF you need 30+ amps to run a VCR, TV, and DVD player, get with the new technology. . .

You can ever buy a 300watt inverter,   and buy a REGULAR 13" color TV, regular VCR, regular DVD player, and still be way under 100watts of use.  My VCR only requires 22watts running, DVD, maybe 27watts, TV of that size?  Maybe 35watts!!  Add that up, you get what 64watts?  That;s LOW power.  12volt devices need more AMPS because of the low  voltage, but we're stil talking 1.5AMPs average.  YOu don't need more than 10AMPS fot those devices, so why make a wiring nightmare?

all that work?

i am sure if you have been installing for years you would know it doesn't take very long to run a wire throught the firewall. About what......maybe 5 minutes.

I myself have installed a few TV's/PS2 set ups in vans. You need your constant 12V from the battery and then your accessory power through a relay going to the unit and use a toggle switch to turn the accessory on and off cause i am sure you wouldn't want the tv running whenever you turn the key to the on position. The grounding part is pretty straight foward.

Whatever dude, running a line through the firewall is NOT hard, never sait is was OR wasn't.  Although it is for my car, because there is no way to get in or out without drilling a new hole.

Why do you need a CONSTANT 12V from the battery?  There are plenty of spots on the fuse block INSIDE the car.  I used one for my CD changer, an empty spot where amn option was not installed, and tapped that.  That only comes on when the key is on, and the CD changer only comes on when I want it on. . .  SO what's the big deal with key on power? 

There is nothing there that retains memory in that TV/PS2  type of set up.   My PS2 is off till I flick the switch in the back, same with the TV dude.  Why keep power going to a device that only needs it when YOU need it.  I shut the power bar down when I am completely done, so th3ere is NO power going to the units till I need power. . .  Symantics really.  You want the guy to rin TWO power lines, one always on, one switched, when you only NEED ONE, PERIOD. . .

I really appreciate all your help.  The FM modulator/tuner and antenna arrives tomorrow and I finally belive I can do this.

Two more questions, if I may,

1. I don't put the black ground wires in the fuse box?  What do I do, screw it to something metal?

2. I know this is a newbie question, but what wire do I buy to run all of this?  Can I get it from Radio Shack?

Again, thank you very much.  You guys are great.

You can put the ground anywhere under the dash that is to metal.  Like, a bolt or screw holding something else to the firewall.   You should use a washer, and place the wire UNDER the washer, tighten, or crimp a connector that fits under the bolt or screw.  Unless you have a wire that runs directly to the negative side of the battery, use that.

As far as wire size, depends on teh current draw, but it sounds like 14guage braided copper would be fine.  You can go lower (thicker wire) if you want.

You may also encouter some or noise in the audio, you can come to that if or when we get there.  That depends in the quality of the ground mostly, I have found.  Do not run POWER and your A/V cables together if possible.  You can induct noise from the power line through the A/V cables. 

Although, I work for a phone company, and I trace wires when hooking up a payphone.  I have found at one place, that someone used a SHIELDED cable for the phone line, and I could not get a trace once it went into the insulation at the punch down block.  Therefore, I could not trace the phone line to it's destination. . .   I liked that stuff, and may look into that for future power or signal lines in my car.  If I could not trace it, mor ethat likely it will not induct or radiate any RFI or EMI. . .

I also read somwhere that TEFLON was a good insulator? 

Ok, running the wires where they need to go was no problem.  Just used a coat hanger.

However, I haven't been able to get my monitor to power up.  DVD has power, as does the antenna. (they have power lights), but my monitor is still blank.  Is there anything else it could be besides a faulty tv?    

Maybe this matters, I attempted to power these devices with wires connected to the battery. (Not for permanent use, just for testing.)